Étretat is one of the most beautiful places I have ever traveled to. It definitely makes the top of my travel list in France. Located in the Normandy region in northwestern France. It is known for its chalk cliffs and 3 natural arches. The area’s beauty drew several artists to its shores, like Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet, and Claude Monet. The three sites I would focus on are Les Jardins d’Étretat, Falaise d’Amont, and Falaise d’Étretat.
I did not get to spend much time in Les Jardins d’Étretat because I wanted to have more time on the cliffs themselves. However, you should not skip this garden. It is full of beautiful and strange sculptures, to include a bunch of large heads embedded into the ground and surrounding foliage. Once you make your way through the garden, there is a pleasant surprise at the top of the hill, Falaise d’Amont. This grassy hilltop overlooks some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever experienced. You can walk right up the edge of the cliffs to enjoy the views.
After enjoying Falaise d’Amont, you can either drive or walk over to Falaise d’Étretat and then start the climb up the cliffs to enjoy more spectacular views. As you climb the cliffs you will be amazed by the many surprises you will find along the trek.
View of Falaise d’Amont from Falaise d’Étretat
When to go
I visited Étretat in September and the crowds were beautifully low and the weather was perfect. I recommend going during good, dry weather to fully enjoy the experience. This adventure is completely outdoors and some of the pathways are made of pebbles that get slick when it rains.
What to expect
To get the full experience of the area, hiking is required and it may feel like a big hike for some people. The views are worth the walk up the cliffs. None of the locations are accessible by car, so if you cannot manage the hike, go to the beach and get a view of the cliffs from there
How to prepare
Even on a sunny, beautiful day, the wind can be in full force. The Normandy region tends to be cooler than the other parts of France no matter the season. When I went in early September, the weather was in the low 60s. It is also possible for the weather to quickly change because of its location along the coast. Walking shoes for the hike, a windbreaker or raincoat, and an umbrella may be handy.
How to get there
Whether you are coming from Paris or another city in Normandy, the best option to get to Étretat is to drive. It gives you the freedom to move around the area at your own speed. Be prepared to pay several tolls, no matter where you come from (ranging from 1.50-5 euro). If you cannot manage the drive, you can take public transportation to Le Havre, and then take the main bus (line 24) to Étretat. Check out the Étretat tourist website for the bus schedule. You can also take the Flixbus from Paris, but its schedule is seasonal and it does not run daily. Another option is to join a tour group for a day trip to Étretat. Viator.com offers tours, but I personally think they are a tad expensive.
Where to eat
There are a lot of touristy options and high-class, Michelin Star options in Étretat. If you are looking for something in the middle, I recommend Le Bistretatais. It is a tiny spot located one street back from the beach. The food is delicious. You can get a three-course, local cuisine meal for 23 Euros. I was one of two lucky tables not reserved for the night, so I recommend you make a reservation ahead of time.