Normandy – Before I Kick it Travel

21 December 201910 May 2020

Mont-Saint-Michel: A Visitor’s Guide

bucket list: 7 days in normandy_mont-saint-michel

Mont-Saint-Michel is a beautiful, magical castle that looks like it could star in any Disney movie. I was amazed that my experience at Mont-Saint-Michel was exactly as I expected. Built in 1523, it is listed as a UNESCO site for its architectural heritage. It is just as beautiful as the pictures and I felt like I was in a fairytale. On top of that, the changing tides make this place even more magical. Depending on the time of day, this city on a hill becomes an island.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”A Spiritual City: The Benedictine Abbey” title_tag=”h4″ _use_separator=”yes” separator_border_width=”2″ _title_typo=”font_family:Dancing%20Script%3A%22regular%2C700%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

The Benedictine abbey is one of the main tourist attractions at Mont-Saint-Michel. This abbey, which is dedicated to Saint Michel the Archangel, offers amazing panoramic views of medieval religious architecture. If you can time it right, arrive before the tide comes in, go to the top of the abbey, and watch as Mont-Saint-Michel becomes an island.

Since the abbey is one of the main draws to the island, I recommend that you buy tickets online ahead of time to skip the line at Viator.com. If you are able to arrive at Mont-Saint-Michel before all of tour buses show up, you should make a beeline to the abbey to avoid large crowds.

[penci_fancy_heading subtitle_tag=”h4″ p_title=”Enjoy the Views” title_tag=”h4″ _use_separator=”yes” separator_border_width=”2″ _title_typo=”font_family:Dancing%20Script%3A%22regular%2C700%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

I arrived at Mont-Saint-Michel very early in the morning, so I could find as many places to enjoy the amazing views from the city with as few people around as possible. If you time your visit right, you can arrive at low tide and over the course of a couple of hours watch Mont-Saint-Michel become an island. It is really amazing to watch.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”How To Prepare” title_tag=”h4″ _use_separator=”yes” separator_border_width=”2″ _title_typo=”font_family:Dancing%20Script%3A%22regular%2C700%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

1. Dress in layers: Due to Mont-Saint-Michel’s location, the weather can change quickly. Even during the summer, temperatures can be cooler than other parts of France. I recommend carrying a light rain jacket or travel umbrella even if the forecast does not call for rain.

2. Watch the tides: It is wonderful to watch this place transform into an island. However, several times a year, the tides rise so high that the bridge becomes engulfed. During those times, Mont-Saint-Michel impossible to access. Make sure you check out the tide tables before your trip.

3. Wear comfortable shoes: From the moment you enter Mont-Saint-Michel you will be climbing your way up to the Abbey. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes.

4. Where to eat: I find the food on the island to be a tad expensive, but people say you must stop by La Mère Poulard for their infamous omelet. It will cost you more than $40. Make reservations if you want to indulge yourself.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”How to Get There” title_tag=”h4″ _use_separator=”yes” separator_border_width=”2″ _title_typo=”font_family:Dancing%20Script%3A%22regular%2C700%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

I think the best way to get to Mont-Saint-Michel is to drive because it will give you the most flexibility. Most tour buses start arriving around mid- to late morning. At that point, the city becomes almost impossible to navigate. Arriving early will allow you to see what you want with a little more ease. It is only about a two hour drive from Paris, Caen, or Bayeux. Parking is easy and will cost about $15. Once you park, you can either walk or take the free trolley to the Mount. The walk will take you about 30 minutes from the car park but it is a beautiful walk as you will have great views of the Mount as you approach it.

If you do not want to or cannot rent a car, then join a tour group is the next best way to go. There are generally daily tours from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel.

Finally, you can also take the train and bus from Paris. Travel from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel has become relatively easy and there are multiple options.

14 November 201913 August 2020

7 Days In Normandy: The Ultimate Itinerary

I am really into World War II history, so my bucket list would not be complete without having Normandy on the list. I knew I would love spending time in Normandy. However, I did not realize how much I would hate leaving the region after spending only a week there. Most people think of Paris or southern France when they consider vacationing in the country. Even when people traveling to Normandy, they usually only take day trips from Paris. My trip to Normandy is now at the top of my list for favorite vacations, so I think it is definitely worth dedicating more time than a day trip to the region. Here is my itinerary for 7 days in Normandy.

- Tip: Fly into Paris and take the train from Charles de Gaulle airport to your final destination in the Normandy region. You could also taxi to Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris (50-55€) and take the train to Normandy from there. Which one you chose may just depend on train departure times.
- Stay flexible: I did not book a lot of things in advance. Good weather makes some activities in Normandy more enjoyable, so my schedule was set on the fly.
- Where to stay: I stayed in Bayeux which is central to most of the highlights of Normandy. It is quiet, but still has a lot to see.

Day 1: Caen

Caen was my first stop because it is the closest town to Bayeux, which was my base location for lodging during my trip. There is a lot to do in Caen. However, since I had only one day to explore, I focused most of my time on a few places, to include the Mémorial de Caen (approx. 20€), L’ Abbaye-Aux-Hommes, and Caen Castle. It is worth spending 2-3 days in Caen if you have extra time. Since the D-Day sites are what brought me to Normandy in the first place, my main priority was to spend as much time as I wanted in the Mémorial de Caen, which is a museum and war memorial commemorating World War II and the Allies battle for Caen.

After about 3 hours in the museum, I caught a bus from right in front of the museum and made my way to the city center. I got off at Caen Castle, which is one of the largest medieval enclosures in Europe and home to the must-see Normandy Museum and Le Musée des Beaux-Arts.

Then I strolled along the Rue Saint-Pierre until I arrived at L’ Abbaye-aux-Hommes, which was consecrated in 1077. Many of the items in the church date back to the XI and XIII centuries. Frankly, I like the outside of the church more than the inside, but it is still worth a visit.

Abbaye-aux-Hommes

Visit Calvados Experience

While wine is one of the most popular beverages in most of France, the apple is king in Normandy. Apples are made into cider, an aperitif called pommeau, and apple brandy. You can take a tour to learn about how these delicious products are made and enjoy a tasting at the Calvados Experience.

How to get there: The best way to get there is by renting a car and driving. You can also book a tour, but driving gives you the most freedom.
Location: About a 40-45 minute drive from the Caen train station.

Calvados Experience

Day 2: Mont-Saint-Michel and Normandy Beaches

Mont-Saint-Michel

Mont-Saint-Michel is a magical place. From far away it looks like something you would see in a Disney movie. Depending on the time of day and tide, it becomes an island. Definitely a gem of Normandy. It is about a 2 hour drive from Paris and Caen. You could also join a tour group from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel, but you will have more flexibility and the opportunity to beat the tour buses and crowds if you drive. Make sure you visit the beautiful gothic Abbey. I find the food on the island to be a tad expensive, but people say you must stop by La Mère Poulard for their infamous omelet. It will cost you more than $40. Make reservations if you want to indulge yourself.

Tip: Mont-Saint-Michel is very hilly. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes. Also, the weather can change without warning. Dress in layers and take a rain jacket just in case.
Tip: Make sure to check the tide tables before your trip. There are times when the island is inaccessible due to high tide.

Sainte-Mère-Église

I started my tour of D-Day beach sites by visiting Sainte-Mère-Église. It is a commune in Normandy that was the first Frenchtown of Cotentin that American paratroopers liberated on D-Day. If you look up at the church, there is a dummy paratrooper hanging from the church steeple in remembrance of John Steele. He spent two and a half hours hanging from the steeple while playing dead to keep German soldiers from capturing him.

Directly across from the church is the Musée Airborne. It does a great job paying homage to the paratroopers who risked their lives in the early morning hours of D-Day. Before you leave this cute town, take some time to grab a cup of coffee, crepe or a light snack and walk around to the shops.

Utah Beach

Utah Beach was the first D-Day beach that I visited on my trip to the Normandy region. My first stop was the museum at the beach site. It is very well done and depicts what happened in the lead up to D-Day. It is one of the most important sites of the commemoration of the battle which marked the beginning of Western Europe’s liberation. There are more than 2,000 artifacts in the museum. As for the beach, the monuments on or near the beach provide a reminder of the brave men who in the early morning of 6 June 1944 and risked their lives to begin the journey to liberate France.

Day 3: Normandy D-Day Beaches

Since I started with Utah beach, I decided to tackle the rest of the D-Day beach sites mostly from west to east. I mostly wanted to start from the furthest destination from my lodging and work my way back home. My tour was not comprehensive of all of the D-Day sites because I did not have enough time. I think you need a full week or more dedicated to the sites to see everything. It was important for me to see as much of the region as possible so I hit many of the American highlights plus one German cemetery.

Pointe du Hoc

Pointe du Hoc has these beautiful cliffs right on the Atlantic Ocean. It was one of my favorite D-Day Normandy beach sites that I visited during my trip. The Germans heavily fortified the entire area as it built up its Atlantic Wall in anticipation of an Allied invasion. At the time, German guns could reach Allied ships at Omaha and Utah Beaches. In the days ahead of the D-Day assault, Allied bombers struck Pointe du Hoc five times to weaken German defenses. To this day, craters from the bombs are sprinkled throughout the fields.

It’s best to visit on a clear day if possible, so you can enjoy the grounds. I went late in the day around 7pm, which was perfect because there was hardly a soul in sight. The sun was just about to set, making a great backdrop for the cliffs and ocean.

Omaha Beach and American Cemetery

The beach is beautiful. It is hard to imagine what it was like over 75 years ago for American soldiers to storm this beach. The topography at Omaha Beach made it easy for the Germans, who had covered the terrain with machine gun nets, mortars, minefields, and barbed wire, easy to defend. The battle at Omaha was one of the most costly battles in terms of human lives lost on D-Day. It is nicknamed “Blood Omaha” because of the more than 4,000 deaths (American and German). It is nice to visit in the morning when the crowds are low and you can take your time to appreciate what happened on this beach.

Normandy American Cemetery

Your next stop should be the Normandy American Cemetery. It reminds me a lot of Arlington Cemetery in Washington, DC. Allies battled German troops throughout Normandy for three months on their march towards Paris. Many American soldiers who lost their lives during these battles remain buried at the American Cemetery

Day 4: Normandy D-Day Sites

La Cambe, German Cemetery

As an American, I did not originally consider going to any German sites, mostly because there are so many American sites to visit. However, I heard that the La Cambe cemetery was unique from the other cemeteries, so I wanted to check it out. I am glad I made the stop. The cemetery was established during the Normandy invasion during which 150,000 Germans were killed, wounded or captured between June and August 1944. The grave site is a lot more minimalist than many of the other sites and the gravestones are flat and shaped like crosses. The most striking aspects are the ages of some of the German soldiers, many of who were teenagers when they lost their lives for the German cause.

Arromanches

Not a single allied soldier set foot on this beach on D-Day. The assault on Arromanches came overland, not from the sea. What remains at Arromanches is a sign of an amazing challenge. The Allies built an artificial harbor to help supply a continuous flow of men, equipment, and supplies to continue the fight in Europe. This location is super cool and should not be skipped.

Tip: Make sure to check the tide tables. At high tide, it will be impossible to see what remains of the harbor.

Longues-Sur-Mer

The German battery at Longues-Sur-Mer was home to four 155mm guns protected by bunkers that were about 300 yards back from the shore. The range of the guns was far enough to reach Omaha and Gold beaches, making them a threat to Allied forces on D-Day. This was particularly true since the Longues battery was still operational on the morning of D-Day. I almost skipped out on visiting this site, but I am glad I stopped, especially since it is the only heavy battery left in the region that still has its guns.

Day 5: Honfleur

Honfleur is a port city in the Normandy region that has a very old town vibe. It has a picturesque port that is adorned with cafes, restaurants and shops. I think it is slightly more touristy than some of the other small towns in the region. It is even busy in early September when vacation season is over and the kids have returned to school. Outside of its beautiful vibe, the main draw to this city is the Sainte Catherine’s Church, the Museé Egène Boudin. The village is a series of winding streets that carry you between wooden houses and several shops selling Normandy treats.

Tip: There is no direct train service to Honfleur. From Paris, you can take the train from Gare St.-Lazare to Deauville. Bus number 20 will take you to Honfleur. Another option is to take a two hour bus from Caen. My recommendation is that you rent a car and drive!

Day 6: Fécamp and Étretat

Fécamp and Étretat are beautiful coastal towns in the northwestern part of France’s Normandy region that you can visit in one day. I would first stop in Fécamp to get your first look at the white cliffs that adorn parts of northern France. While you are in Fécamp, make sure to do a tour of the Bénédictine Palace where you will learn about the palace, sip bénédictine, and enjoy the Tasting Room, Tea Room and shop.

Étretat is less than a half-hour drive from Fécamp and was one of the most beautiful places I have ever traveled to. I have said that about a lot of places, but Étretat is definitely at the top of the list. It is known for its chalk cliffs and 3 natural arches. The area’s beauty drew several artists to its shores, like Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet, and Claude Monet. The three sites I would focus on are Les Jardins d’Étretat, Falaise d’Amont, and Falaise d’Étretat.

Étretat

Day 7: Normandy’s Cheese and Caramel

You cannot leave Normandy without indulging in some of the region’s treats. Normandy’s cows, bred in the Pay d’Auge region, make some of the best milk that is rich in proteins. That delicious milk is used to create Normandy cream and butter that is used in the region’s four most famous cheeses; Camembert du Normandie, Livarot, Pont-L’Évêque, and Neufchatel. I did a tour at La Masion du Camembert. The tour and cheese tasting was a little underwhelming, but I still think it is worth checking out.

Once you have filled your belly with cheese, head over to Isigny-sur-mer and stop by Caramels D’Isigny to taste some of the best caramel you will ever eat. They offer a tour of how they make their delicious treats. There is a shop on the premises that sells three types of caramel; tender, slightly sticky or fondant (not sticky), as well as caramel popcorn, ice cream, crepe and waffle toppings, and lots of other goodies.

12 October 201919 September 2021

Étretat Normandy: A Travel Guide

Étretat is one of the most beautiful places I have ever traveled to. It definitely makes the top of my travel list in France. Located in the Normandy region in northwestern France. It is known for its chalk cliffs and 3 natural arches. The area’s beauty drew several artists to its shores, like Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet, and Claude Monet. The three sites I would focus on are Les Jardins d’Étretat, Falaise d’Amont, and Falaise d’Étretat.

I did not get to spend much time in Les Jardins d’Étretat because I wanted to have more time on the cliffs themselves. However, you should not skip this garden. It is full of beautiful and strange sculptures, to include a bunch of large heads embedded into the ground and surrounding foliage. Once you make your way through the garden, there is a pleasant surprise at the top of the hill, Falaise d’Amont. This grassy hilltop overlooks some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever experienced. You can walk right up the edge of the cliffs to enjoy the views.

After enjoying Falaise d’Amont, you can either drive or walk over to Falaise d’Étretat and then start the climb up the cliffs to enjoy more spectacular views. As you climb the cliffs you will be amazed by the many surprises you will find along the trek.

View of Falaise d’Amont from Falaise d’Étretat

When to go

I visited Étretat in September and the crowds were beautifully low and the weather was perfect. I recommend going during good, dry weather to fully enjoy the experience. This adventure is completely outdoors and some of the pathways are made of pebbles that get slick when it rains.

What to expect

To get the full experience of the area, hiking is required and it may feel like a big hike for some people. The views are worth the walk up the cliffs. None of the locations are accessible by car, so if you cannot manage the hike, go to the beach and get a view of the cliffs from there

How to prepare

Even on a sunny, beautiful day, the wind can be in full force. The Normandy region tends to be cooler than the other parts of France no matter the season. When I went in early September, the weather was in the low 60s. It is also possible for the weather to quickly change because of its location along the coast. Walking shoes for the hike, a windbreaker or raincoat, and an umbrella may be handy.

How to get there

Whether you are coming from Paris or another city in Normandy, the best option to get to Étretat is to drive. It gives you the freedom to move around the area at your own speed. Be prepared to pay several tolls, no matter where you come from (ranging from 1.50-5 euro). If you cannot manage the drive, you can take public transportation to Le Havre, and then take the main bus (line 24) to Étretat. Check out the Étretat tourist website for the bus schedule. You can also take the Flixbus from Paris, but its schedule is seasonal and it does not run daily. Another option is to join a tour group for a day trip to Étretat. Viator.com offers tours, but I personally think they are a tad expensive.

Where to eat

There are a lot of touristy options and high-class, Michelin Star options in Étretat. If you are looking for something in the middle, I recommend Le Bistretatais. It is a tiny spot located one street back from the beach. The food is delicious. You can get a three-course, local cuisine meal for 23 Euros. I was one of two lucky tables not reserved for the night, so I recommend you make a reservation ahead of time.

3 October 201910 May 2020

Normandy – 10 Things To Know Before You Travel

Normandy is a beautiful region in the northwestern part of France. Home to the D-Day invasion during WWII, infamous cheese, delicious apple products, and coastal towns that have drawn artists to the region for decades. The region’s quiet beauty is a nice reprieve from the bustling nature of Paris. It is definitely on of my favorite places to visit. Here are 10 things to know before you travel to Normandy.

France – 10 Things to Consider Before Traveling

D-Day Beaches

I think Normandy is a beautiful region to visit all on its own, but I do not think a trip to Normandy would be complete without visiting the D-Day beaches. On 6 June 1944, Allied troops landed on 5 beaches, which are now known as Utah, Omaha, Gold, Sword, and Juno. It was a spectacular invasion that was instrumental in bringing down the Nazi regime. There is a lot to see and one could spend an entire week or more visiting all of the sites. No need to do it all, as most of the museums walk through the events.

Mont-Saint-Michel

Mont-Saint-Michel is a city built on a hill near the ocean, which almost everyday becomes an island due to tides. Definitely a gem of Normandy. It is about a 2 hour drive from Paris and Caen. You could also join a tour group to Mont-Saint-Michel, but you will have more flexibility and opportunity to beat the crowds if you drive. Make sure you visit the beautiful gothic Abbey.

More to Normandy than D-Day Beaches and Mont-Saint-Michel

Even though the D-Day beaches and Mont-Saint-Michel are what originally drew me to Normandy, there is so much more. Many people only visit the region as a day trip from Paris, but I think it’s worth staying a week or more in the Normandy region. The beautiful coastline is worth exploring, as well as the many small and cute cities that are sprinkled all over the region. I recommend day trips to Fécamp, Étretat, and Honfleur. If you have even more time, Rouen and Giverny are a must see.

Rent a Car

Unlike Paris or other parts of Franc, getting around Normandy without a car will be very limiting. There is so much to see and so many extremely cute towns to explore. Since driving out of Paris can be a pain, I recommend that you take the train from Paris to Caen. Enterprise, Europcar, and Sixt are all located right outside the train station. There are several other rental car companies near by. Make sure to reserve a car ahead of time, especially if you need an automatic vehicle.

Base in one city

If you plan to spend more than one day in the Normandy region, I think it is best to pick one city to base in and rent a car to explore the area. During my travels, I chose Bayeux. It is a small, cute town that still has a slightly bustling vibe. There are several D-Day memorial sites in the town and it is about 40 min to 2 hours drive from several highlights in Normandy. If you prefer a slightly bigger city, then Caen is also a good choice.

Apples over Grapes

When it comes to France, most people think of the country’s wine and champagne. However, in Normandy, the apple is the king. There are multiple distilleries throughout Normandy where they turn apples into cider, pommeau des normandie (an aperitif), and apple brandy. All three are very different and worth trying. I recommend visiting Calvados Experience, which has the most impressive tour of its facilities and the process, and is about 40 meters west of Caen by car.

Eat butter, cream, and cheese!

Besides its apples, Normandy is known for it’s cows which produce magnificent milk. As a result, Normandy makes delicious dairy products. Camembert, Livarot, Pont l’Evêque, and Neufchatel are the most popular and well-known Normandy cheeses. If you have time, you should do a cheese tour during your trip. I visited Maison du Camembert in Camembert, but E. Graindorge in Livarot is also a very popular tour.

Pack for changing weather

Since many of popular cities and sites are long the coast, the weather can be a tad unpredictable. It can go from sunny and warm to drizzly and cool in a matter of minutes. Dress in layers and keep a travel umbrella or raincoat with you during your travels.

Do you speak English?

If you ask that question in Normandy, the answer is likely to be no or just a little. Unlike Paris, many people in the region do not speak English. It is not uncommon to not have train announcements translated into English. Also, museums in smaller cities may only have signs in French. You can always ask for an audio translation, and some sites will have detailed pamphlets in English. Google translate or a travel size French-English dictionary can also be very handy.

Be prepared to walk

While renting a car is the best way to get around Normandy, once you get to your destination, park your car and walk the city. Many of these towns are better explored on foot. It will give you the opportunity to find surprises and see all of the sites. During my week in Normandy, I walked over 40 miles. Now, that may not work for every traveler, but you should still be prepared to do a decent amount of walking during your trip.