Normandy

I am really into World War II history, so my bucket list would not be complete without having Normandy on the list. I knew I would love spending time in Normandy. However, I did not realize how much I would hate leaving the region after spending only a week there. Most people think of Paris or southern France when they consider vacationing in the country. Even when people traveling to Normandy, they usually only take day trips from Paris. My trip to Normandy is now at the top of my list for favorite vacations, so I think it is definitely worth dedicating more time than a day trip to the region. Here is my itinerary for 7 days in Normandy.

• • Tip: Fly into Paris and take the train from Charles de Gaulle airport to your final destination in the Normandy region. You could also taxi to Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris (50-55€) and take the train to Normandy from there. Which one you chose may just depend on train departure times.
  • Stay flexible: I did not book a lot of things in advance. Good weather makes some activities in Normandy more enjoyable, so my schedule was set on the fly.
  • Where to stay: I stayed in Bayeux which is central to most of the highlights of Normandy. It is quiet, but still has a lot to see.

Day 1: Caen

Caen was my first stop because it is the closest town to Bayeux, which was my base location for lodging during my trip. There is a lot to do in Caen. However, since I had only one day to explore, I focused most of my time on a few places, to include the Mémorial de Caen (approx. 20€), L’ Abbaye-Aux-Hommes, and Caen Castle. It is worth spending 2-3 days in Caen if you have extra time. Since the D-Day sites are what brought me to Normandy in the first place, my main priority was to spend as much time as I wanted in the Mémorial de Caen, which is a museum and war memorial commemorating World War II and the Allies battle for Caen.

After about 3 hours in the museum, I caught a bus from right in front of the museum and made my way to the city center. I got off at Caen Castle, which is one of the largest medieval enclosures in Europe and home to the must-see Normandy Museum and Le Musée des Beaux-Arts.

Then I strolled along the Rue Saint-Pierre until I arrived at L’ Abbaye-aux-Hommes, which was consecrated in 1077. Many of the items in the church date back to the XI and XIII centuries. Frankly, I like the outside of the church more than the inside, but it is still worth a visit.

Visit Calvados Experience

While wine is one of the most popular beverages in most of France, the apple is king in Normandy. Apples are made into cider, an aperitif called pommeau, and apple brandy. You can take a tour to learn about how these delicious products are made and enjoy a tasting at the Calvados Experience.

• How to get there: The best way to get there is by renting a car and driving. You can also book a tour, but driving gives you the most freedom.
• Location: About a 40-45 minute drive from the Caen train station.

Day 2: Mont-Saint-Michel and Normandy Beaches

Mont-Saint-Michel

Mont-Saint-Michel is a magical place. From far away it looks like something you would see in a Disney movie. Depending on the time of day and tide, it becomes an island. Definitely a gem of Normandy. It is about a 2 hour drive from Paris and Caen. You could also join a tour group from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel, but you will have more flexibility and the opportunity to beat the tour buses and crowds if you drive. Make sure you visit the beautiful gothic Abbey. I find the food on the island to be a tad expensive, but people say you must stop by La Mère Poulard for their infamous omelet. It will cost you more than $40. Make reservations if you want to indulge yourself.

• Tip: Mont-Saint-Michel is very hilly. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes. Also, the weather can change without warning. Dress in layers and take a rain jacket just in case.
• Tip: Make sure to check the tide tables before your trip. There are times when the island is inaccessible due to high tide.

Sainte-Mère-Église

I started my tour of D-Day beach sites by visiting Sainte-Mère-Église. It is a commune in Normandy that was the first Frenchtown of Cotentin that American paratroopers liberated on D-Day. If you look up at the church, there is a dummy paratrooper hanging from the church steeple in remembrance of John Steele. He spent two and a half hours hanging from the steeple while playing dead to keep German soldiers from capturing him.

Directly across from the church is the Musée Airborne. It does a great job paying homage to the paratroopers who risked their lives in the early morning hours of D-Day. Before you leave this cute town, take some time to grab a cup of coffee, crepe or a light snack and walk around to the shops.

Day 3: Normandy D-Day Beaches

Since I started with Utah beach, I decided to tackle the rest of the D-Day beach sites mostly from west to east. I mostly wanted to start from the furthest destination from my lodging and work my way back home. My tour was not comprehensive of all of the D-Day sites because I did not have enough time. I think you need a full week or more dedicated to the sites to see everything. It was important for me to see as much of the region as possible so I hit many of the American highlights plus one German cemetery.

Pointe du Hoc

Pointe du Hoc has these beautiful cliffs right on the Atlantic Ocean. It was one of my favorite D-Day Normandy beach sites that I visited during my trip. The Germans heavily fortified the entire area as it built up its Atlantic Wall in anticipation of an Allied invasion. At the time, German guns could reach Allied ships at Omaha and Utah Beaches. In the days ahead of the D-Day assault, Allied bombers struck Pointe du Hoc five times to weaken German defenses. To this day, craters from the bombs are sprinkled throughout the fields.

It’s best to visit on a clear day if possible, so you can enjoy the grounds. I went late in the day around 7pm, which was perfect because there was hardly a soul in sight. The sun was just about to set, making a great backdrop for the cliffs and ocean.

Day 4: Normandy D-Day Sites

La Cambe, German Cemetery 

As an American, I did not originally consider going to any German sites, mostly because there are so many American sites to visit. However, I heard that the La Cambe cemetery was unique from the other cemeteries, so I wanted to check it out. I am glad I made the stop. The cemetery was established during the Normandy invasion during which 150,000 Germans were killed, wounded or captured between June and August 1944. The grave site is a lot more minimalist than many of the other sites and the gravestones are flat and shaped like crosses. The most striking aspects are the ages of some of the German soldiers, many of who were teenagers when they lost their lives for the German cause.

Day 5: Honfleur

Honfleur is a port city in the Normandy region that has a very old town vibe. It has a picturesque port that is adorned with cafes, restaurants and shops. I think it is slightly more touristy than some of the other small towns in the region. It is even busy in early September when vacation season is over and the kids have returned to school. Outside of its beautiful vibe, the main draw to this city is the Sainte Catherine’s Church, the Museé Egène Boudin. The village is a series of winding streets that carry you between wooden houses and several shops selling Normandy treats.

Tip: There is no direct train service to Honfleur. From Paris, you can take the train from Gare St.-Lazare to Deauville. Bus number 20 will take you to Honfleur. Another option is to take a two hour bus from Caen. My recommendation is that you rent a car and drive!

Day 6: Fécamp and Étretat

Fécamp and Étretat are beautiful coastal towns in the northwestern part of France’s Normandy region that you can visit in one day. I would first stop in Fécamp to get your first look at the white cliffs that adorn parts of northern France. While you are in Fécamp, make sure to do a tour of the Bénédictine Palace where you will learn about the palace, sip bénédictine, and enjoy the Tasting Room, Tea Room and shop.

Étretat is less than a half-hour drive from Fécamp and was one of the most beautiful places I have ever traveled to. I have said that about a lot of places, but Étretat is definitely at the top of the list. It is known for its chalk cliffs and 3 natural arches. The area’s beauty drew several artists to its shores, like Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet, and Claude Monet. The three sites I would focus on are Les Jardins d’Étretat, Falaise d’Amont, and Falaise d’Étretat.

Day 7: Normandy’s Cheese and Caramel

You cannot leave Normandy without indulging in some of the region’s treats. Normandy’s cows, bred in the Pay d’Auge region, make some of the best milk that is rich in proteins. That delicious milk is used to create Normandy cream and butter that is used in the region’s four most famous cheeses; Camembert du Normandie, Livarot, Pont-L’Évêque, and Neufchatel. I did a tour at La Masion du Camembert. The tour and cheese tasting was a little underwhelming, but I still think it is worth checking out.

Once you have filled your belly with cheese, head over to Isigny-sur-mer and stop by Caramels D’Isigny to taste some of the best caramel you will ever eat. They offer a tour of how they make their delicious treats. There is a shop on the premises that sells three types of caramel; tender, slightly sticky or fondant (not sticky), as well as caramel popcorn, ice cream, crepe and waffle toppings, and lots of other goodies.