africa – Before I Kick it Travel

24 April 202010 May 2020

Safari in Kenya: An Ultimate Guide

When I started my bucket list in 2010, I never imagined that I would be able to do so many things on it so quickly. Going on safari seemed like an item that I would check off in the very distant future. However I was able to check off safari in Kenya early in my bucket list journey. I have been fortunate to have been on five safaris over the years.

Zoos are not my thing, so I did not think I would love safaris. Finding a pride of lions, a herd of elephants, or even a momma warthog with her surprisingly cute piglets (yes…that’s what they are called!) made me fall in love with nature in unexpected ways.

By far, the Maasai Mara (commonly called the Mara) in the Kenya Rift Valley Province is the most popular safari destination. Home to the Maasai people, the Mara has beautiful, iconic landscape. It provides the backdrop to experiencing animals in their natural habitat. The Mara is where the Great Migration takes place. As a result, you can easily find the “big five” (the African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard, African lion, and African black rhino). If I could do only one thing in Kenya, this would be it!

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You have decided to go on safari in Africa and you are wondering how to get you planning started. It can feel daunting to plan travel to Africa in generally, especially if it is your first time to the continent.

I rarely use travel agents, however, I highly recommend using a travel agent to plan your safari. It will make the entire process much easier. Instead of using a US-based travel agency, I always use Nairobi-based Travel Affairs to book all of my travel inside of the country and to neighboring African countries. They are friendly and helpful. The agents have an understanding of the wide variety of safari camps and they can provide recommendations depending on the type of experience you want to have.

Where to stay

The Maasai Mara is the most popular destination in Kenya for safari, but there are certainly other gems. Ol Pejeta near Mount Kenya and Amboseli are two other areas I have visited. The Kenya Wildlife Service maintains hundreds of safari parks all over the country.

There are different safari experiences, but most include sleeping in a tent. No ordinary tent of course. Well, they zip up like a regular tent and sort of look like one from the outside. Once inside, you will find plush beds and full bathrooms.

You do not have to completely break the bank to go on safari. But, I do prefer the semi to luxury tent experience because it is all inclusive, has 5 star food and gives you the chance to customize your drive times.

5 Tips for Travel to Kenya

My Favorite Camps:

Sanctuary Olonana, Maasai Mara; luxury camp on Mara River.
Mara Bushtops, Maasai Mara; one of the most beautiful camps in Nairobi.
Governors Camp Collection, Maasai Mara; variety of camps on Mara River.
Ol Tukai Lodge, Amboseli; where the elephant rules the land and Kilimanjaro is in the background.
Tortilis Camp, Amboseli; luxury camp in Amboseli where the elephant rules the land.
Ol Pejeta Conservacy; Nanyuki; home to the last two Northern White Rhinos on the planet.

When to go

You can go on Safari any time of the year, however, the best time is from June – October when it is the dry season. The Great Migration, when hundreds of thousands of wildebeests and zebras migrate from Tanzania to Kenya, also happens this time of year.

The highlight is to see the animals cross the Mara River. The wildebeests and zebra line up and sometimes wait for an hour before making the decision to cross. I understand the dilemma. Crocodiles line the river banks and hope they make a kill and fill their bellies.

For some strange reason, after so much contemplation and risk, they often times just turn around and cross the river again. Because of the large volume of animals, there is also an increased possibility to see a lion or cheetah hunt or kill! Pick a safari camp that is near the Mara River. This will reduce drive times to get to the action.

I would avoid going on safari during the rainy season. Many safari camps in the Maasai Mara shut down during part of the long rains from April – early June.

You should work with a travel agent to map out the best safari camps to visit during this time. The short rains, November – December, are less challenging and safari camps are open.

Besides lots of animals, migration season is crowded with people and it is the most expensive time to travel. I personally think it is worth it. If you do not like crowd, you should travel in between the rainy seasons, slightly before or after migration.

Many safari camps offer great deals during the low season. You will still have the chance to see the big five (the African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard, African lion, and African black rhino).

How many days on safari

I recommend spending only 2-3 days on safari. If it took you days to get to the Mara, you will be tempted to spend a week trying to locate the hard to find leopard (it took me 5 trips). However, bumping around in a dusty vehicle for more than 3 days will mostly likely start to wear on you.

Instead, I you should take the extra days to spend time in Nairobi, travel to Naivasha, or visit the beautiful Kenyan coast. In three days, you generally will do about 5 game drives. That’s plenty of time to have a memorable experience.

What to Pack

Safaris can be dusty and temperatures can fluctuate greatly over the course of several hours. here are my recommendations on what you should include on your packing list.

Enough clothing to dress in layers
Light jacket
Scarf
A hat
Sunscreen and sunglasses
Backpack
Flashlight or headlamp
Bug/mosquito repellant
Camera and long distance lens if you have one
Lens cleaning cloth

24 April 202010 May 2020

Day Trips from Nairobi: 5 Great Getaways

I think Kenya as a whole is such a beautiful country. There is so much to see and experience that it could take you years to uncover all of its treasures. Most travelers only get to visit Nairobi and the safari camps. However, if you have time, there are several day trips from Nairobi worth taking. Here are 5 great getaway trips that are easy to get to within two hours of the city limit that I recommend.

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Lake Naivasha

One nicest day trips outside of Nairobi is a visit to Lake Naivasha. About 90 minutes outside of Nairobi, Lake Naivasha is a perfect destination to experience nature in a different way than a traditional safari. Lake Naivasha is a freshwater lake located northwest of Nairobi and is part of the Great Rift Valley. Named Nai’posha, meaning ‘rough water,’ by the Maasai for the sudden rain storms that cause rough, high waves.

The lake is home to over 1500 hippos and 400 different species of birds, making it a great place for nature lovers. Boat trips can be taken from many lakeside lodges and campsites. It’s a good opportunity to see the hippos up close, but proceed with care.

They are the most dangerous animals in Africa; strong swimmers and runners (for short distances). To give you an idea of their strength, only the female hippo bite strength has been measured because the male is too aggressive to test.

Cost: $20-25 for boat/$30 for Crescent Island
When to go: All year around
What to bring: Sunscreen, lots of water, snacks
Wildlife: variety of wildlife

The lake is surrounded by the most beautiful forests of yellow Acacia Xanthophlea trees. While on your day trip to the lake, make a stop at Crescent Island to get an even closer look at non-predatory animals, such as the giraffe, which were born on the island.

Mount Longonot

Traveling to Mount Longonot was one of the hardest day trips I took from Nairobi. An inactive volcano almost 9000ft above sea level, Mt. Longonot offers one of the most difficult hikes and some of the most beautiful views in Kenya.

Less than 40 miles outside of Nairobi, Mt. Longonot National Park gives you a chance to see if you can keep up with the Kenyans on this difficult hike. Try not to be embarrassed as they pass you barely breaking a sweat and hiking in flip flops with ease.

The hike is steep and the terrain is made mostly of volcanic rock and fine dust, which can be slippery and becomes muddy when it rains. There are several view points along the way. Most of my group was not fit, but it would have certainly helped.

The hike takes about an hour from the Park Gate to reach the rim and a little more than an hour to hike around the rim, so plan for 4 hours total. Unless you are an avid hiker, you will be proud of yourself once you complete the journey. I highly recommend packing a snack or lunch and bring lots of water and sunscreen.

Cost: $26
When to go: All year around
What to bring: Sunscreen, hat, and snacks
Wildlife: Buffalos, Gazelles, Impala and Giraffe

Hell’s Gate National Park

Hell’s Gate National Park was one of my favorite day trips from Nairobi. Looking for a less intensive hike than Mount Longonot with the same reward of beautiful landscapes and views? Hell’s Gate National Park is Mt. Longonot and Lake Naivasha’s neighbor in the Great Rift Valley and the location of what the Lion King location is based from. It is rocky and covered ash from the last volcanic eruption at Mt. Longonot, but a relatively easy hike. Established in 1984, it is home to many forms of wildlife. It is definitely my favorite hike!

When you arrive, there are guides available to take you on the hike, which I highly recommend. They not only show you the way, but they help you navigate slightly difficult terrain. It takes about 2-4 hours to hike, depending on your speed and if you choose to visit pride rock.

Cost: $26pp, approx. $20 per group for a guide
When to go: All year around
What to bring: Sunscreen, water
Wildlife: buffalo, zebra, eland, hartebeest, Thomson’s gazelle and baboons are common. There are over 100 species of birds in the park.

Brown’s Cheese

Brown’s Cheese is one of the closest day trips from Nairobi. One thing I love about Kenya are the gems you can find outside of the city. Kenya is not generally known for its cheese. As a matter of fact, Brown’s Cheese, an all natural cheese company, started because cheese was hard to find in Kenya up until 1979 when Brown’s Cheese was established.

Brown’s Cheese is located about an hour outside of the city center on a beautiful farm in the middle of the tea plantations in Limuru, Kenya. It offers tours of its factories and farm and lunch where you can tastes their yummy cheese.

I have done this day trip and tour three times. When you arrive, they serve homemade lemonade or some other homemade, refreshing drink. The cheese platter is accompanied with homemade bread and jams. They provide a tasting menu card that describes the cheese and the best jam parings. Since their cheeses do not contain additives, coloring, or coating the taste is super fresh. I am not a fan of stinky cheeses, but their feta and blue cheeses are my favorites.

After the cheese tasting, lunch is served, followed by homemade ice cream. I recommend the salted caramel!

Cost: Approximately $40
When to go: All year around

Kiambethu Tea Farm

Kiambethu Tea Farm is also one of the easiest day trips from Nairobi. It is also located in Limuru, in the rolling hills covered tea plants, the Kiambethu Tea Farm was established in 1910 and is still run by the same family.

The farm is very peaceful. You can enjoy a cup of tea, hear the history of the farm, and then walk through the indigenous forest surrounding the farm.

A homemade, delicious three-course lunch will be awaiting you upon your return from the walk. It is recommended you book in advance, as space is limited and tours are generally offered once a day.

Cost: Approximately $35
When to go: All year around
What to bring: A light jacket

How to get there? See: 5 Tips for Easy Travel in Kenya

19 February 202010 May 2020

Travel to Africa: 9 Countries You Should Visit

Africa, the amazing continent! I recommend that everyone travels to Africa during their lifetime if possible. It slightly puzzles me to hear someone says they want to travel to the “country” of Africa. I wonder why it is easy to see these unique counties as a monolithic place? Yes, you will also hear people say they want to travel to Europe or Asia, but they generally have a specific country in mind and rarely consider those continents as a country where cultures, norms, and languages are the same.

Maybe it is because Africa feels very foreign and most of the news coverage of any given African country hits one note. Maybe it is because fewer Americans travel to Africa for vacation than to other parts of the world. Whatever the reason, it seems like most people know very little about the people, culture, food, or achievements of those who inhabit this wonderful continent.

I have so many bucket list items I want to accomplish in Africa. I have only scratched the surface of getting to know Africa. But, all of my experiences have been amazing and incredibly memorable. I will admit that I have not been to West Africa. But, the next time I travel to Africa, it will be region that I visit. Travel to Africa is special. No matter which African country I have visited, I walk away with the same impression. The people are warm and welcoming. However, the various regions feel culturally different. The range of religions, languages (more than 2,000), food, music, dance, and skin tones make Africa very diverse and interesting.

Through all of my travels around the world, many of my favorite memories come from my travel to Africa. While I have been to 12 African countries, I am only highlighting nine because a few countries I have visited are now war torn or undergoing civil unrest.

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There is no way I could start my discussion about travel to Africa without noting my favorite county. If I had to pick one place to travel in Africa, Kenya would have to be at the top of my list. It is my favorite country on the continent, and not just because my name is Kenya. I have spent the most time there and I fondly consider it to be my second home. The country as a whole is so beautiful and offers something for everyone. Such as, city life, mountains, the beach and hiking.

Safari in Kenya was one of the first bucket list items I checked off of my list. While going on safari is my favorite thing to do in Kenya, the landscape creates the backdrop for varied and amazing experiences throughout the country. As someone who is not wedded to any particular ideal vacation, it is possible to have several types of experiences in one trip. The iconic bush in the Mara provides a backdrop to silently watch a variety of animals roam, hunt, and nurture their young in their natural habitat.

People from all over the world travel to Africa every year for the Great Migration. Throughout the year, millions of wildebeest and zebra make a huge circle migrating through the Maasai Mari Reserve in Kenya to the Serengeti Plains in Tanzania. That in itself is worth a visit to either country. But, there is so much more to wildlife in Kenya than the migration. It all starts in the capital city, Nairobi! It is one of most vibrant, fast moving cities in East Africa. You can one spend a day in Nairobi and get up and close with baby elephants, feed giraffes, and go on safari at Nairobi National Park. Yes, safari right in the middle of the city.

The large lakes, such as Lake Naivasha, allow you to get close to hippopotamuses and a wide array of beautiful and colorful birds. From the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, you can get a view of Mount Kenya or you can see it up close and personal and climb one of the tallest mountain in Africa. I cannot forget the beautiful Kenyan coastline. Some areas along the coast are more touristy than others. But, you can find clear blue water to snorkel, scuba diving, parasailing, or go deep sea fishing.

Best time to go:

Any time is a good time to travel to Kenya. The Equator passes through the country, so it is split between hemispheres. Part of the country is in the summer while the other half is in winter. Not that it matters much because most of the country is warm or hot, hot, hot all year long. Nairobi has the best climate because it is 5,889 feet above sea level. So, the average high temperature is in the 70s. There are two rainy seasons, April-May and October. During these times you may want to consider putting off travel to a different time of the year. While rains do not last all day, soggy ground makes it difficult to go on Safari. Kenya closes some of its parks during the April rainy season.

Where to stay:

There are a lot of great hotels in Nairobi. My favorite hotels are: The Tribe, The Papillion, The Sankara

Tips:

Getting a visa for Kenya is required for all US citizens. It is relatively simple for you to acquire online.
If it is your first time to the continent, I recommend using a Nairobi-based travel agency, Travel Affairs, to book safaris and travel outside of Nairobi. If you plan to spend the day in Nairobi, use Moses (+254 726937965/Moses.mbogo@yahoo.com) to get around. Many American and other expats use Moses’ taxi service.
The temperature is fairly pleasant all year. However, no matter the season, it is a tad cooler in the mornings and evenings. It’s best to pack a pair of pants and a jacket regardless of when you travel. This is especially true on Safari.
Okay, so I HATE to haggle, but it is part of the Kenyan culture.

5 Tips for Easy Travel in Kenya

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One place I think of when I reminisce about travel to Africa is South Africa. South Africa, located at the southern most tip of the continent, is my second favorite country in Africa. Even though I have only seen a fraction of South Africa, its breathtaking beauty is unforgettable. I have spent most of my time in Cape Town, which feels like a mix between Europe and Africa. At every turn there are cafes, boutiques, and shops that you can pop into and enjoy the culture.

Before I dive into South Africa’s beauty, I think it is proper to start with the dark side of the country that can still be felt there today. The memory of Apartheid, which was a system of institutionalized racial segregation that existed in South Africa in the mid-20th century, hangs over the country. As a dark skinned African American, white or colored (an official term for most mixed-raced people) people made sure to tell me where I fit into their society.

With that said, South Africa has come a long way, and taken steps to reflect on past transgressions. If you have the chance, you should definitely visit the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg to get a sense of what it was like during that time. The museum is well done!

Cape Town, located in the southwest part of the country along the coast, is a beautiful gem. I love everything about this city. It is difficult for most people to get to South Africa, but once you do, it is possible to enjoy the absolute best at a relatively cheap cost.

Love wine? Well, you can spend an entire day in the Stellenbosch and Franschhoek areas where some of the best South African wine is made. There are several day tours from Cape Town to these regions, making them very accessible. Many people drive themselves, but what is the fun in that? South Africa does not export a lot of their wine, so leave room in your suitcase so you can take home a few of your favorites.

Love food? I do! It is possible to get a multi-course, high quality meal and a bottle of wine for under $50. South Africa is known for it’s yummy game meat. From ostrich to kudu and a lot of other meats in between, you can get pretty adventurous. My recommendation is that you try as much as possible. It is usually well prepared and delicious.

While I love wine and food, it’s South Africa’s natural beauty that is even more memorable. The beautiful beaches and landscape will cause you to exhale and put you at ease as you stand in awe of the earth’s beauty. You can walk in the sky at Table Mountain, which was on my bucket list, see the tip of the earth at the Cape of Good Hope, swim with the sharks in the sea or visit with the penguins.

Outside of Cape Town, the country has a lot more to offer from safari’s in Kruger National Park, one of the largest game reserves in Africa, to the Garden Route. There is a lot to enjoy!

Best time to go:

In general, the best time of year to go to South Africa is between March and May and September and November when crowds and prices are lower. If you want to go shark diving, then visibility is best from March to September. Remember that South Africa is in the southern hemisphere, so it will be much warmer from December to March, but prices and crowds are also higher.

Where to stay:

I have always used Airbnb during my visits to South Africa. The hotels are great, but much more expensive. Do some research on the various areas. They are all great, so where you stay depends on your preference.

Tips:

South Africa has a high crime rate, higher than many other African countries. Do not carry large amounts of cash or valuables and it is best to travel in pairs.
Do some research on restaurants and make reservations before you travel. Some of the best restaurants will be completely booked 1-2 months in advance.
If you go to the Cape of Good Hope, take a jacket with you. Even during the summer months it can be windy and a little chilly.

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Egypt might not come to people’s mind when they think of travel to Africa. This country is a place of dual identities because it is the link between Africa and the Middle East. Egypt is full of rich history that is well preserved in parts of the country. It is exciting to visit places that most people will only experience by watching movies.

Egypt is a country of contradictions. For example, the magnificent Nile river flows from south to north and is the life line of the country. It provides lush, fertile land that Egyptians have lived off of for centuries. In contrast, the desert can be extremely hot and dry, and it can be hard to find relief from the sun.

No bucket list would be complete without including Egyptian ruins, tombs, and temples. They preserve Egypt’s history, which dates back to the time of the Pharaohs. Cairo is a bustling city that is home to multiple pyramids and ruins. They will make you wonder about how the Egyptians could have possibly built them without modern technology. However, Luxor is my favorite city. It was the top item on my bucket list for Egypt. It is much quieter and has historical sites that have been fairly well preserved considering that Egyptians built them more than 4 thousand years ago.

I truly believe that a country’s language provides a window into the culture and people. Arabic is a hard, yet beautiful and poetic language. The people are passionate and feisty, yet welcoming. A true reflection of the language they speak.

To be honest, I broke my normal travel pattern and did not eat a lot of Egyptian food. Traditional food consists of Java beans called ful (pronounced like fool) and falafel, which is made of chickpeas. The most traditional Egyptian food is called Koshary, which is a mix of rice, macaroni, lentils, chickpeas and a red sauce. It’s cheap and supposed to be filling.

However, I did eat Sharwarma, a popular street food that is a twist on the Greek Gyro. Fattah, is a traditional dish I think everyone should try. It consists of crispy bread, rice, meat, and vinegar/tomato sauce. Egyptians traditionally serve it at big feasts and celebrations. You should definitely drink the fresh juices; strawberry was my favorite.

Best time to go:

You can visit the pyramids anytime of the year. However, Egyptians tend to burn anything they can get their hands on in the winter, which creates a lot of smog. While it is blazing hot in the summer, it was much easier to see the pyramids as well as the rest of the city without a cloud of smog hanging over the city. I recommend booking a tour guide to see the pyramids. It will give you a much richer, hassle free experience.

Where to stay:

While it is a tad expensive, my favorite place is the Four Seasons Hotel in Cairo at Nile Plaza in Cairo. I also stayed at the Hilton Luxor Resort and Spa in Luxor. I think the most important thing to consider when looking for a place to say in Cairo, is safety. Make sure to pick a hotel that has some sort of security.

Tips:

Visas are required for Americans traveling to Egypt, but can be acquired at the airport on arrival.
Egyptian immigration officials have denied entry to travelers without explanation, however it is rare. If you are arriving from Israel or Gaza, check out the US Department of State’s travel website for additional information.
Make sure you have a copy of your flight itinerary with you. You will have to show it to security before they allow you to enter the airport in Cairo.
You can definitely get around Cairo via taxi, but I recommend that you join a tour group to visit the sites.
Watch out for unofficial tour guides.

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Morocco, on the northwestern tip of Africa, is a country that will wake up all of your senses. Most people I know who have never traveled to Africa, usually name Morocco as the first place they want to visit. While, it was not quite at the top of my list, I had several Morocco-based items on my bucket list. There are many sides to this country that will leave you in awe and many times in a state of pure frustration. However, no matter how many times I thought to myself, “why am I here,” I truly cherished the good, bad and ugly experiences I had in this interesting country.

Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, beaches, and golden deserts are the main draw to the country. The Atlas Mountains were not necessarily my favorite part of my travels in Morocco, but they are still amazing. You can drive or hike your way through the mountains, during which time you will experience beautiful views. Morocco’s beaches are amazing and beautiful with blue water that is calming and inviting. Spending a day or two in the desert is a must. Large sand dunes, camel treks, and watching sunsets and sunrises in the middle of nowhere will bring a calm to your vacation.

I must say that I LOVE Moroccan food, which they flavor with lots of spices. Besides the food, there are many shops you can visit to buy Moroccan jewelry and handmade pottery.

Best time to go:

To avoid really hot temperatures, the best time of year to go is in the spring and fall. I visited between late April and early May and I thought it was a little cool outside of Marrakesh. It was rainy in parts of the country. However, it was never really too cold.

Where to stay:

There are a lot of options for places to stay in Morocco from very expensive and luxurious, to fairly inexpensive. I chose the former route and spent a pretty penny on my hotels. I stayed at the Hotel & Ryads Barriere Le Naoura in Marrakesh Palais Sheherazade & Spa in Fez.

Tips:

Let me start by saying that nothing in Morocco is free!! Moroccans are kind people, but they want to be paid for that kindness.
Research the cost of cab fare. Take some time before you plan to hop into a taxi to do some research. I found a great website called MoroccoCab that can assist you. Always negotiate your cab fare before you get in the vehicle!
Do not use unofficial tour guides. This is easier to fall victim to than you think. Someone may approach you, start walking alongside you, and strike up what seems to be an innocent conversation. They will ask you questions like, “where are you from?” and “how long have you been here?” They will do all of this while showing you around and then charge you for their service.
Have a plan and stick to your plan. Go over your plan before you leave your hotel.
Look like you know where you are going as it may help you to draw less attention.
Ultimately, be polite, but say no thank you and keep walking!
Know what you are paying for. Morocco has great olive and Argan oil and saffron. However, it is not all real. Many places mix the oil with vegetable oil and god knows what they use to trick you into believing that you are buying saffron.

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Tanzania is in East Africa along the Indian Ocean and is one of the gems of Africa. I do not think most people consider Africa’s beautiful coasts or its islands when they consider travel to Africa. This country is complex and offers a lot for visitors to explore. It has a mix of Christian and Muslim traditions that makes this country even more special. It has some of the best safaris on the continent, which you can experience at the Serengeti National Park. There you will see the “big five,” which are the elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino. It shares the Great Migration with Kenya, when hundreds of thousands of wildebeests and zebras migrate between the two countries.

If you love hiking, climbing Africa’s tallest mountain, Kilimanjaro, will test your capabilities. For me, my favorite part of Tanzania is its infamous island Zanzibar and its beautiful beaches. Located just off of the coast of Tanzania, Zanzibar is easy to reach by plane or ferry from Dar Es Salaam, the country’s largest city. On this tiny island, you can have a mix of experiences. Stone Town, which is located on the southwest part of the island, is made up of small winding streets full of shops that sell local goods, jewelry, and handmade products. And of course, one cannot travel to Africa and not eventually be confronted by the ghosts of slavery. In Stone Town, you can also get a historical perspective of the East African slave trade.

The entire island has great beaches, but the most popular are in the northern part of Zanzibar. There, the beaches, snorkeling, and scuba diving are the best. The clear blue Indian Ocean water is amazing!

Best time to go:

When you decide to go to Tanzania will probably depend on what you plan to do while in the country. If you plan to focus on safaris, then going during the dry season from June to October is the best time of year to go. You can see the migration sometime between June and July. Zanzibar is beautiful all year round, but the best time to go is from June to October when it is cooler and Tanzania is going from winter to spring. You could also go during Tanzania’s summer months from December to February when it is very very HOT and dry!!

Where to stay:

My favorite place to stay in Stone Town is the Zanzibar Serena. It is a slightly older hotel and has a sort of colonial feel to it. If that does not interest you, then there are newer hotels you can chose from. In the northern part of the island, I recommend the Essque Zalu. I loved this hotel. It is right on the water, includes full board, and the rooms are beautiful.

Tips:

Visas are required for travel to Tanzania.
Depending on where you are in Tanzania, petty crime can be high. it is not recommended that you carry a purse or backpack if you plan to travel to Dar Es Salam. Large cities have high crime rates.
Remember that the coastal areas have large Muslim populations. Women should dress conservatively.
Homosexuality is illegal in Tanzania.
You may want to take malaria medication as it is a high threat area.

[penci_fancy_heading _text_align=”left” p_title=”Rwanda” title_tag=”h3″ _title_typo=”font_family:Merriweather%20Sans%3A%22300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

Rwanda, what an interesting country. A police state that is still scarred from the genocide of the 1990’s. And, I know some people who will not include it on their list for travel to Africa for that reason. However, it is a lush and beautiful green country where the people are welcoming and kind. Gorilla trekking was on my bucket list, and is what drew me to Rwanda. But, I definitely think it is worth taking some time to pay respect to and learn about the horror that happened in Rwanda almost 30 years ago.

The Kigali Genocide Memorial does a great job honoring those who suffered and died during the genocide. It is the resting place of more than 250,000 victims. During my trip, we saw 45,000 remains, mostly skeletons stacked on top of each other. Only a small reflection of the more than 800,000 Tutsis and some Hutus who lost their lives.

After paying my respects, I made my way to Volcanoes National Park to begin my trek to see the gorillas. I am drawn to nature, but there are few things that have been as awe-inspiring as gorilla trekking in Africa to see them in their natural habitat. Who would not want to travel to Africa to see these magnificent creatures? There is something about being up close to these creatures that left such an impression on me. It was one of the most memorable experiences in my life.

The Gorilla Berengei Berengi (Mountain gorilla) lives in the Congo, Rwanda, and Uganda. There are some 900 gorillas that remain in the region as the numbers have dwindled due to poaching.

Depending on where you start your trek, it may take you up to 1.5 hours to drive to small villages near the mountain and another 30-45 minutes to reach the base of the mountain. The hike is TOUGH. Your guides will barely break a sweat as they cut back the thick forest and bamboo to make a path. Meanwhile, you huff and puff up and question your choices in life. The trek can last anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours.

If you have time, make sure to take an extra day to see the Golden Monkeys. They are indigenous to Rwanda and cannot be seen anywhere else in the world. The trek to see them is not nearly as grueling as the gorilla trek. The Golden Monkey is an endangered species that lives in the bamboo vegetation of the Volcanoes National Park. It provides a beautiful backdrop for a visit with these creatures that do not at all look like monkeys to me. They are the cutest monkey I have ever seen.

Best time to go:

You really can enjoy this experience any time of the year. However, my recommendations is to go during the dry season from December to February and June to September. There is always a chance of rain, but I think other times of the year is just way too muddy and will make an already hard climb harder.

Book your trip well in advance of your planned travel. The number of trekkers is limited to about 56 per day to protect the habitat. The permit for foreign visitors to trek in Rwanda is $1500pp. If that is outside of your budget, the permit in Uganda is much cheaper at $600.

Where to stay:

I stayed at the Five Volcanoes Hotel Rwanda, which is a luxury boutique hotel. It is all inclusive and a beautiful. There are lots of other hotels in the area that offer good accommodations, but Five Volcanoes is one of the best.

Tips:

Visas are required for travel to Rwanda.
Wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts and take gloves: Even if it is hot, you will want to be covered to protect your skin from stinging nettles.
Only trek in hiking boots: No flip-flops!! You will have major regrets if you choose to hike with exposed feet.
Take a rain jacket: Even if there is not calling for rain, it could happen suddenly.
Carry plenty of water and lunch or snacks: Remember, you may be hiking for hours.
Take your good camera: I took a very expensive camera and lens, put them in my backpack, and let my porter carry it until we found the gorillas.
Pack a plastic bag for muddy boots. Our hotel cleaned our Boots, but not every hotel offers that service.
Take a pair of binoculars.

[penci_fancy_heading _text_align=”left” p_title=”Zambia and Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls)” title_tag=”h3″][/penci_fancy_heading]

Zambia and Zimbabwe are in Southern Africa. There are some very unique things that should draw you to these two countries, but for me, it was Victoria Falls. Spanning between both countries, Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The waterfall is on the Zambezi river on the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia. It is the largest in the world, which you can see from both countries. However, the best views are from Zimbabwe. While the falls are beautiful all in themselves, there are some adventures worth experiencing at the falls. If you are into whitewater rafting, then you can do some of the best rafting on the Zambezi river.

Travel to Africa would not be complete without taking a plunge into Devil’s Pool at the falls. Which was exactly my adventure of choice and on my bucket list. Devil’s Pool is a natural rock pool at the very edge of Victoria Falls that has been created by thousands of years of erosion. Thousands of tourists every year test fate by taking a guided tour through the Zambezi River and crossing a path of rocks before jumping into Devil’s Pool at the every edge of the falls.

View from Devil’s Pool

You may be wondering if Devil’s Pool is safe. Well, I think it is mostly safe, but not without a lot of risk. While you are not exactly swimming to Devil’s Pool, you do have to cross through the river to get there. You should be a decent swimmer. Also, there are apparently hippos and crocodiles in the river, which no one told me about during my trip. As for falling over the waterfall, there is at least one death at Victoria Falls each year, but the overall death count is low.

Best time to go:

It all depends on your preference. Travel to Africa during the rainy season in any country is not great. This is especially true for Vietnam. If you go during the rainy season or just afterwards in March or April, then the river will be full. During this time, Devil’s Pool is inaccessible. There will also be too much cloud spray to see the full width of the falls. Sometime around mid-September, the river is low enough to not only be able to see the full glory of the falls, but you can also go to Devil’s Pool. The river is at its lowest point in November and December when there is little to no waterfall. So, shoot for some time between September and October to get the most out of your trip.

Where to stay:

I recommend the Avani Victoria Falls Resort in Zambia. If you are looking for luxury, then stay at Avani’s neighboring hotel the Royal Livingstone Hotel. Animals roam the properties and it is not uncommon for a zebra to walk right by you. Both hotels are right on the Zambezi river and close to Victoria Falls. Even if you do not stay at the Royal Livingstone, you should still have dinner there at least once. The food and service are amazing.

Tips:

Visas are required for US citizens in both countries. You can apply online or get it on arrival in Zambia or online in Zimbabwe.
If you plan to do Devil’s Pool, then bring swim shoes or waterproof shoes as you will have to walk over rocks to get to the pool.
Bring a towel.

[penci_fancy_heading _text_align=”left” p_title=”Botswana (Chobe River)” title_tag=”h3″ _title_typo=”font_family:Merriweather%3A%22300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

Botswana is in Southern African and is a country that I still know very little about. And, I hope that on future travel to Africa, I can see more of the country. It is best known for its land safaris because seasonal floods draw a large animal population. The Central Kalahari Game Reserve is the most popular in the country. However, I visited Botswana for its water safari along the Chobe River in the Chobe National Park. The Chobe river flows into the Zambezi river where Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Botswana intersect. Unlike a land safari, which is crazy bumpy, dusty, and hot, you will peacefully cruise down the river while being able to view some of the most amazing creatures on earth.

When I think of travel to Africa for a safari, Botswana never came to mind. My expectations were quite low, especially since I had done multiple safaris in Kenya before traveling to Botswana. However, I loved my experience. There are some 50,000 elephants that live in the park and roam along the river. Watching a family of elephants playing at the water’s edge, testing the water for its depth, and then crossing the river was the highlight of the cruise. Getting very close to a motionless crocodile, watching buffalo roam along the river bank, and hippos playing in the water nearby also makes you feel close to nature.

Best time to go:

The best time to travel to Botswana for land or water safari is sometime between May and September, which is the dry season. During this time there is a large concentration of of animals.

Where to stay:

Since the Chobe river is in close proximity to Victoria Falls, my recommendation is to stay in Zambia and visit the falls during the same trip. I recommend the Avani Victoria Falls Resort in Zambia. If you are looking for luxury, then stay at Avani’s neighboring hotel the Royal Livingstone Hotel. If you prefer to stay in Botswana, then the Chobe Game Lodge and the Chobe Marina Lodge are highly recommended.

Tips:

Visas are required for US citizens, which can be acquired on arrival at the airport or border crossings.
Take lots of sunscreen and a hat.

15 January 202010 May 2020

10 Things You Must Do in Morocco

30 December 201910 May 2020

How to Spend One Day In Nairobi

Kenya as a whole is one of the most beautiful countries I have visited. Its capital city Nairobi is definitely one of my favorite cities on the planet. It was the first Sub-Saharan African country that I visited. During this time, I discovered that it is such an interesting and cosmopolitan city. I had already been to North Africa or other Arab countries, however, those parts of Africa are quite different than Sub-Saharan Africa. Culturally, they seem more like the Middle East. So, I did not know what to expect to see or experience when I landed in Nairobi. There is so much to experience there, so it is hard to imagine spending just one day in Nairobi.

As a hub for East Africa, it is a very busy city with lots of character and charm. I have spent A LOT of time in Nairobi. Despite that, I still feel like there is so much I have not seen or experienced. It is the only place in the world where you can shop, eat, and experience a happening night life in the vicinity of a national park where wild animals roam freely and have occasionally made their way out to the city streets.

I know that many people traveling to Kenya only stop in Nairobi before transiting to the Mara or other safari locations. To truly get a feel for Nairobi, I recommend dedicating at least 3-4 days of your trip just to Nairobi. However, if you only have one day, I still think it is worth your time.

To make things easy no matter how much time you have, you can book a tour that will hit most of the city’s highlights through Viator.com. If you want a little more freedom, you can easily navigate the city by hiring a taxi driver for the day for approximately the same cost as a tour.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Nairobi National Park” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

The Nairobi National Park is a safari park located in Nairobi’s city center. Because of its accessibility, the the National Park is one of the most visited safari parks in the country. It is something you should not miss if you have several hours to spend in Nairobi. It is an especially great alternative, if going to a safari park outside of Nairobi is not an option. The park is the only one in the world where animals roam freely in a loosely enclosed space in the middle of a major city. There you can view zebras, lions, buffalo, rhinoceros and skyscrapers at the same time. There are over 400 species of some of the most colorful birds in the world the park. The only significant animal missing is the elephant because it needs a lot more space to roam than what the park offers.

As with any safari, you should visit early in the morning or later in the day when the animals are most active. Arriving early also gives you enough time to hit the other tourist highlights in Nairobi in the same day.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Elephant Orphanage ” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

During my first trip to Kenya, I fell in love with elephants and it would have been hard not to after visiting the Sheldrick Elephant and Rhino Orphanage in Nairobi.

All of the elephants are orphans, usually due to poaching. Sometimes momma elephants die of natural causes, reject their young or from time to time the baby elephant may be too weak to keep up with the herd.

Elephants are full of personality, which will be evident during your visit. What I love is that each elephant is assigned a keeper. They feed them every few hours and sleep with them through the night. They essentially be come their new moms.

For 500 shillings (approx $5), you can visit the orphanage during a public feeding of some 20 elephants aged from a couple of months to three years old. In about 30-40 minutes time, you will hear stories about each elephant, watch them drink milk from huge bottles, and enjoy their play time. I recommend that you arrive at least 30 minutes early to queue up. Crowds are generally large and you will want to be up front to have the best view of the elephants.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Giraffe Center” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

How many times can you say that you had the opportunity to get up and close with a Giraffe? Giraffes make my favorite animal list. Their tall, lanky legs give a kick powerful enough to kill a lion and their beautiful eyelashes seduce you. They are just magnificent creatures.

Sadly, the number of Giraffes left on earth has fallen by at least 40 percent in the past 15 years. For some species, it has fallen by almost 80 percent. The Giraffe Center in Nairobi helps breed giraffes in their natural habitat to boost the population. Calves are released into the wild at two to three-years-old when they are independent enough to survive on their own. So far, the center has released 40 giraffes into game parks around the country.

For 1000 shillings (approx $10), visitors can learn about giraffes in Africa and discovering how the center cares for them. One of the highlights of your visit will be be feeding the Giraffes from a a tall platform. Giraffes are very sociable and will eat right from your hand. Some people are courageous enough to put the treats in their mouths to receive a very wet kiss from the giraffes.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Shopping In Nairobi” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

Nairobi has a vibrant shopping scene, where you can get anything from traditional African products and souvenirs to handmade customized furniture. Some of my favorite products are handmade clothing, jewelry and leather handbags. Whenever I travel to a new country, I try to buy earrings made in that country. So, I bought a lot of earrings ranging from very inexpensive to very expensive jewels during my time there.

One of my favorite places to buy jewelry is at the Kazuri Bead Factory. Located in Karen, Nairobi, single mothers make ceramic beads and pottery by hand, which are sold all over Nairobi. If you visit the factory, you can choose from a large variety of earrings, necklaces, and bracelets as well as some pottery. You will also get to meet the women who complete the long, multi-step process to produce beautiful and unique pieces of jewelry.

21 December 201910 May 2020

Egypt: Exploring the Pyramids in Cairo

I am not sure my bucket list would have been complete if it did not include the pyramids in Cairo. Cairo is a bustling city, with a population of about 20 million people, making it one of the most crowded cities in Africa. Cairo sets the backdrop its main attractions for tourists, exploring the pyramids in Cairo. During my first trip to Egypt, there was so much smog in Cairo that it was nearly impossible to see the pyramids. I left the country very disappointed and under the impression that there was not much to see at all.

Luckily for me, I ended up in Cairo a little more than a year later and had near perfect weather. With blue skies, I had the chance to see one of the seven wonders of the world. There are about 80 pyramids in Egypt. The most popular tourist site and the most well-preserved pyramids are located at Giza. However, you should not overlook Saqqara, the first pyramids ever built.

Pyramids and Mastabas (tombs) in Egypt tell you a lot about how people in ancient times viewed life and death. Ancient Egyptians considered the sun to be a god. Everyday the sun rose in the east and set in the west. It brought life, food, and fortune. People expected their lives to mirror the sun. As a result, they believed they would spend a short time on earth, only to rise again.

To be prepared for the afterlife and the eventual return to earth, pharaohs were mummified and buried with treasures. Many of these treasures can be seen in the Egyptian Museum. If you cannot make your way to Egypt, you can visit the British Museum in London, where you can also see Egypt’s treasures

Saqqara Pyramids

The history of the Egyptian pyramids began from around 2650 B.C. Saqqara is the location where pharaohs built the first pyramids in Egypt. It is the most important and the richest necropolis (cemetery) in the country. It is completely surrounded by desert sands and located on the western bank of the Nile just south of Cairo.

The Mastaba of Akhethotep and Ptahhotep

Inside of the pyramids and mastabas, you can see the stories of the individuals who were buried in the tombs inscribed on the walls. Many of the texts and pictures provide unusual and rare details.

The pyramid text are the oldest complete collection of religious writings. Spells, ritual chants, and anything else necessary to ensure the protection of the other world for the dead pharaoh were inscribed in tombs. As a result, there were 228 inscriptions, painted in blue and written in hieroglyphs to aid the pharaoh’s journey into eternity.

Giza Pyramid

Giza is one of the 7 wonders of the world, and a must see. There are 3 big and 3 small pyramids at Giza. By the time Egyptians built Giza, they had better technology. For this reason, they are the most well-preserved pyramids in Egypt. The earthquake in Crete in 1303 was felt in all the way in Cairo and it dislodged the first layer of limestone that gave the pyramids their smooth appearance.

You can visit the pyramids anytime of the year. However, Egyptians tend to burn anything they can get their hands on in the winter, which creates a lot of smog. While it is blazing hot in the summer, it was much easier to see the the pyramids as well as the rest of the city without a cloud of smog hanging over the city. I recommend booking a tour guide to see the pyramids. It will give you a much richer, hassle free experience.

Check our my post on 10 Tips for Travel in Egypt for recommendations.

15 December 201910 May 2020

Solo Female Travel in Morocco

Solo female travel in Morocco is not for a timid traveler. And, while I really do enjoy traveling by myself, I have a love hate relationship with this country. Morocco is at the top of my list as one of most difficult solo trips I have taken and it was even more complicated by being a woman. Constantly drawing a man’s attention, and not in a good way, was just one issue. Arguing with people in French when my French is in a constant state of what I would call rusty, was another. Morocco can feel overwhelming, even if you have friends to lean on. It can be even more intimidating traveling by yourself.

Solo Travel: The Truth About Traveling Alone

I spent 10 days traveling as a solo female in Morocco and I saw several parts of the country. Each location had a different feel to it, and I was on edge during most of my trip. My first stop was in Marrakesh and it started out a tad rough when a taxi driver refused to listen to me. I repeatedly told the driver that I did not want a tour of the city, but he refused to take me to the destination I had requested. When he finally dropped me off, he upped the price of our original negotiated price.

As I tried to get out of the car, he grabbed my arm to try and force me to stay in the car. My very strong tone in limited French saved me and I was able to argue my way out of the situation. This all took place on my first day in Morocco, so it made me a little nervous for the rest of my trip.

After leaving Marrakesh, I did a 4 day trek through the Atlas Mountains as well as an overnight desert tour. The tour guide was a lifesaver, as I am not sure it would have been wise to travel without one as a solo female traveling in Morocco. I was initially worried about riding with two men through the mountains by myself. However, it turned out to be alright and they kept me from being harassed by other men during the trip.

That all ended when I arrived in Fez. My hotel was nice and located outside of the medina. However, walking through the medina was frustrating even when I had a male tour guide. Outside of the stares, cat calls, and men mumbling under their breaths as they passed me on the street, a guy aggressively followed me through the medina.

I know this will sound crazy, but if I had to do it all over again, I would still be okay with solo travel in Morocco. However, I would have done a better job mentally preparing myself for the many frustrations I experienced. Here are a few tips that I wish I had followed:

Travel to Morocco: What Surprised Me

Do some planning

I highly recommend that you do some pre planning before arriving in Morocco regardless of whether or not you are doing solo female travel in Morocco. Get a feel for some of the culture, customs and norms of Morocco before your trip. It will help you to look like you know what you are doing on the street. And, that will help limit unwanted attention. It will also give you the confidence not to cave into unofficial tour guides. Tour guides seem helpful, but ultimately want your money. This may sound contrarian, but the easiest time I had during my trip was when I joined a tour group or hired an official guide. That generally created a buffer between me and strangers. I really liked using Authentic Morocco and Viator.com to book my tours.

Dress Modest

Remember that Morocco is a Muslim country. It is not necessary to cover your head, but you should dress modestly. Wear long pants, skirts and shirts that cover the arms. As a solo female traveling in Morocco, I think some sort of cover will help you not draw as much attention.

Lodging

I am not a budget traveler, so I had no issue staying in nice hotels in the major cities. I am not saying you must stay in the most expensive hotels to feel safe. However, you should take time in choosing lodging, read lots of hotel reviews and do some research about the location.

Shared cabs

I wish I knew that sharing a cab is normal in Morocco. Do not be surprised when a cab pulls over to pick you up and there are already several people in the cab. You will probably feel very uncomfortable, especially if you have to squeeze in between a bunch of men.

Someone will keep you company!

Even if you are a solo female traveling in Morocco, it is really hard to really be alone. The fact that you are enjoying time to yourself is an invitation for Moroccans to come chat with you. I do not think this only pertains to Morocco, but it stood out to me during my trip. Frankly, it is nice that people are friendly enough to make sure you are enjoying your time. Consider returning the kindness and take a moment to get to know Moroccans!

29 November 201910 May 2020

Bucket List: Amazing Moroccan Desert Tour

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”” _title_typo=”font_family:%3A” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A” css=”.vc_custom_1575041127845{margin-bottom: 75px !important;}”]Visiting Morocco was such an interesting trip. As part of my bucket list travels, I wanted to spend at least one night in the Moroccan desert. Even if it was not on my list, a trip to Morocco would not have been complete without spending the night in the desert. I was happy that I was able to fit in an amazing Morocco desert tour into my travels![/penci_fancy_heading][penci_fancy_heading subtitle_tag=”h4″ p_title=”How to get there” title_tag=”h6″ _use_separator=”yes” separator_border_width=”2″ _title_typo=”font_family:Acme%3A%22regular%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”]I spent several days in Marrakesh before I started making my way through the Atlas Mountains on my way to Fez, included stops at Ait Benhaddou, Dades Gorges, and World Heritage Site, Ouarzazate. After a very interesting tour to that point, I finally reached what ended up being my favorite part of the trip. The desert!

I was a little nervous at first because I was traveling by myself with two male guides. I also found out on my way to the edge of the Erg Chebbi desert that I would be the only person staying in the camp overnight. All of my worries ended up being for nothing because my desert tour was one of the highlights of my vacation in Morocco.

Once I arrived at the edge of Erg Chebbi, I alone mounted a camel with a guide and we started the trek into the desert. Wow…it was so beautiful. Just me, the camel, and the guide surrounded by golden sand dunes. My camel was quite stubborn and did not want to walk, but it did not bother me at all. We made it to a great location in the absolute middle of nowhere, and started hiking the dunes.

Travel to Morocco: What Surprised Me

[/penci_fancy_heading]

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”What to expect” title_tag=”h4″ _use_separator=”yes” separator_border_width=”2″ _title_typo=”font_family:Acme%3A%22regular%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”]Let me just say that I never want to be trapped in the desert in Morocco during the middle of summer. I can see why so many crazy movies have been filmed in the Moroccan desert. It is a harsh environment and the sand is so fine that it gets trapped in all of your hair, including your eyelashes!

However, even in such a harsh environment, there is a calm feeling that overcomes you by being there. After playing in the Moroccan sand, we waited, watched and relaxed for quite some time to watch the sunset. It was amazing. Afterwards, I climbed back on the camel and headed to the camp.

I decided to stay in the luxury tented camp in Morocco. After so many safaris in Kenya, I could not imagine staying in anything besides a luxury camp. As the sole person at the camp for the night, it was a little strange but nice. I sat out in the quiet and took in the beautiful stars in peace.

I love the food in Morocco, and my food experience was just as great in the desert. There were a few Berbers at the camp with me, and they made me a huge feast. I stuffed my self silly on Moroccan food. Chicken tagine, beef with prunes tagine, couscous tagine, two veggie tagines, salad and soup were all placed before me. They also made me delicious deserts and a provided bottle of red wine. I finished the night sitting under the stars with a good book.[/penci_fancy_heading]

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”” _title_typo=”font_family:%3A” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A” css=”.vc_custom_1575037832072{margin-top: 50px !important;}”]After a good night’s rest, I set my alarm to get up at 6am and climbed the sand dunes to watch the sunrise. It was a peaceful morning as I sat in by myself and watched the morning sun. Afterwards, I enjoyed a nice breakfast in the Moroccan desert.[/penci_fancy_heading]

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”How to prepare” title_tag=”h4″ _use_separator=”yes” separator_border_width=”2″ _title_typo=”font_family:Acme%3A%22regular%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”]

Do research on tour companies. There are several tour companies in Morocco that provide desert tours, but I recommend Authentic Morocco Private Tours. They were great and everything was as promised. I also used them to book a private tour of the medina in Fez. They took care of me every step of the way and both the driver and tour guide protected me from unwanted attention.

You get what you pay for. Morocco is no different than the rest of the world. You get what you pay for. If you want to sleep in a plush bed and have running water, then will have to pay a little extra. I think it is worth it, especially considering the environment.

Pack appropriately. Temperatures fluctuate in the Moroccan desert. Not only can it go from extreme between cold in the winter to over 100 degrees during the summer, but it can be quite extreme in one day. It is not uncommon for a summer night to feel very cold. Your packing list for Morocco should include clothes to dress in layers. Also, take a scarf with you to cover your head and face. If it is at all windy, sand will definitely be everywhere. During the winter, I recommend packing a sleeping bags for extra warmth at night.

Stay hydrated. Drink lots of water during the hot Moroccan summers. You may not feel like you are sweeting because it is such a dry heat, but you can easily get dehydrated.

Protect your skin. You are likely to be on your camel ride for several hours. Make sure you wear sunscreen.[/penci_fancy_heading]

25 November 201910 May 2020

Travel to Morocco: What Surprised Me

Of all of the African countries listed on my bucket list, Morocco was at the top of my list. I had been looking forward to visiting Morocco for a very long time. Due to the timing of my trip, I ended up traveling solo, which I never mind doing. Overall, it was a good trip but not quite as I expected. I am not sure what I imagined it would be like. Well, that is not true. I have spent quite a bit of time in Spain, and for some reason I expected Morocco to feel similar to Spain. The Moors from North Africa impacted Spanish culture. Arab and Berber Muslims who crossed the Strait of Gibraltar and conquered parts of present-day Spain influenced Spanish language, culture, and dance.

I cannot tell you how much I LOVE Spain. My dream is to retire in Seville! But, this is a post about Morocco. Morocco is not the Spain of North Africa, as I thought. Outside of some architecture aspects, it is quite different in almost all respects. I will start by saying that I am glad I took this trip. There were a lot of great highlights. However, even though I have lived in Africa and I have visited Arab countries, I was still not prepared for my cultural experience in Morocco. While I never really felt unsafe, sometimes being solo complicated my travels. My travel to Morocco was filled with surprises. Here are the good, bad, and the ugly things I wish I knew before my trip to Morocco.

Old world feel,

I’m going to start off with what I loved most about Morocco…its old world feel and the food! Traveling through Morocco almost makes you feel like you have stepped back in time. A time when the community helped and served each other to accomplish the most basic things in life. The donkey is still the main form of transportation for many Moroccans. You will definitely see a lot of donkeys or mules used to move people and goods in the medinas, especially since a lot of streets are too narrow for cars. Also, do you remember the last time you got your meat from the butcher? Probably not, since for most Americans that time has long since passed. In Morocco, you notice that:

You can drop off your bread dough at the baker and he will bake it for you.
Chickens are usually bought alive because they have to be slaughtered based in Islamic law. Butchers take care of that for you.
Got fresh ground meat? Someone will grind it for you while you wait.
Most dresses are handmaid.
Someone will make you fresh philo dough for all of your pastillas, desserts and meat dishes.

Moroccan Food

Morocco food was a highlight for me. However, I will say up front that I though Moroccan food was pretty much the same everywhere I went, but I still loved it. I ate a lot of lamb, beef, or chicken tagine. Tagine is a Maghrebi dish which is named after the earthenware pot in which it is cooked. Inside of that wonderful pot, Moroccans prepare an aromatic stew. When properly cooked, the meat is super tender and flavorful. I never had a tagine dish that was not fresh, hot and delicious.

One dish I wish I had discovered earlier in my trip is pastilla. It is a wonderful meat pie based on a sweet and savory combination. The filling, which usually consists of pigeon or chicken, is enclosed in several layers of an extremely thin dough called warkaor warqa (sheet of paper, in Arabic). If you get the opportunity, you can see ladies making the dough in the market. Do not leave Morocco without eating this dish!

Do not forget to drink my three favorite beverages in Morocco; mint tea, fresh orange juice, and red wine. They make mint tea with Chinese gunpowder green tea and spearmints. Moroccans drink this tea with LOTS of sugar. They will usually add in the sugar for you, so let them know if you are like me and do not like super sweet tea. I drank this tea all the time while I was in Morocco.

Moroccans also are famous for their fresh orange juice. You will never buy orange juice out of the supermarket again once you have a taste of Moroccan OJ. Some say it is the best in the world. Best place to get it in the markets or medinas, but I am sure you can also get it at restaurants.

Finally, you must try Moroccan wine. Unlike many Muslim countries, you can drink in Morocco. Thank goodness, because the red wine is quite good. You can buy wine and alcohol in most major supermarkets and restaurants.

Take a cooking class. Taking a cooking class on every continent is on my bucket list. Up to this point, I had not taken a class in Africa. Since Morocco has fantastic food, I had to do it.We cooked a few of Morocco’s traditional dishes like tagine, salads, and “Msemen,” which is a folded Moroccan crepe. Of course, like most cooking classes, we had a feast after we prepared all of our dishes. I booked my class through Viator.com and took the Farmhouse Cooking Class from Marrakech. I enjoyed the experience and learned a lot about cooking Moroccan food.

Do a food tour. Finally, I did a Tasting Trail by Night food tour in Fez through Plan-it Fez. Food tours are a must for me on my trips because you either discover mom and pop restaurants you would have never otherwise found or you get to discover new cuisine. This food tour was a stretch for me. I am an adventurous eater, but you will not catch me eating bugs or brain. Bugs were not on the menu during my tour, but brain was. However, my guide did not pressure me to eat it. I did, however, enjoy snail soup, beef tongue and cheek, and preserved meat. Preserved meat is kind of weird, which is preserved in salt and fat, but it tasted way better than I expected. I also tasted about 12 different types of Moroccan honey, which is a must.

• You might also enjoy: Thailand Food Tour: A Taste of Bangkok

Avoid Scams and Rip Offs

Now that I have spent time telling you about all of the yummy food to eat in Morocco, let me address one of my biggest pet peeves about this country. Let me start by saying that nothing in Morocco is free!! Moroccans are kind people, but they want to be paid for that kindness. I hated worrying about being taking advantage of as a foreigner for the entire duration of my trip, which was 10 days. By the time I arrived in Morocco, I had already traveled to over 30 countries. I am very much aware that in many developing countries, negotiating and bargaining is a way of life. I get it! But, it really wore me down on this trip. Here are a few of my thoughts to help endure what you will encounter and help you avoid scams and rip offs while in Morocco.

• Research the cost of cab fare. Take some time before you plan to hop into a taxi to do some research. I found a great website called MoroccoCab that can assist you. Always negotiate your cab fare before you get in the vehicle! I learned this from the moment I stepped out of the airport. Before I had arrived in Marrakech, I had done some research about how much I should pay for a cab ride from the airport to the hotel.

Several of the cab drivers wanted to charge me double the normal fare. Once I found someone willing to take what I knew to be a fair price, it turned out he was not even the driver. He haled what I had hope to be a legit cab. When I get into the car, the driver asks me how much do I want to pay. When I quote him the price, he claimed “that is the day price.” I had to fight with the drive to get him to accept what I knew to be the appropriate fare.

•Be clear about your destinations. As I have said, Moroccans are nice and they are proud of their beautiful country. Cab drivers will want to show you their city as they drive you to your originally stated destination. Be mindful that if you choose to be “shown” around, the negotiated price you agreed to when you got in the vehicle is now out the window. However, you will not find that out until you have arrived at your final destination and the driver quotes you a new price two to three times higher than the original price.

I am not suggesting that you do not take advantage of a local driving you around to unscheduled destinations, but I would recommend that you immediately renegotiate the price. I will note, that even though I made it clear that I did not want to be driven around, my driver disrespected my wishes, and then tried to charge me almost four times the originally negotiated price. Lucky for me I had enough French to argue with the driver.

• Do not use unofficial tour guides. This is easier to fall victim to than you think, especially in big market places like Jemaa el-Fnaa and tourist sites. It will be very clear to Moroccans that you are a foreigner. Someone may approach you, start walking along side you, and strike up what seems to be an innocent conversation. They will ask you questions like, “where are you from?” and “how long have you been here?” They will seem very impressed that you have traveled such a long way just to visit Morocco.

Then they may ask you something like, “have you been to the best pottery shop in Marrakech? It has the best pottery in town and is very affordable.” It may even be more innocent, such as a Moroccan pointing to different locations of interests. Do not fall into any of these traps. Do not let anyone guide you anywhere unless you are committed to paying them for their service. A few things to help you avoid this trap are to:

Have a plan and stick to your plan. Go over your plan before you leave your hotel.
Look like you know where you are going as it may help you to draw less attention.
Ultimately, be polite, but say no thank you and keep walking!

• Know what you are paying for. Morocco has great olive and argan oil and saffron. However it is not all real. Many places mix the oil with vegetable oil and god knows what they use to trick you into believing that you are buying saffron. Best bet is to do your research before purchasing. Separately, I swear by using official tour guides as the best way to see Morocco. However, there were a few times when the tour guide rushed us through our trip so that they could take us to their “friend’s” shop to buy stuff. This annoyed me. I do not like to pay for something and then be forced to do something completely different than expected.

• I have a reservation! After spending A LOT of time researching hotels in Fez, I found just the one I wanted, in the exact area I wanted. When I arrived at the hotel, to my surprise, they told me they had moved me to another hotel. They did not move me to a dump, but it was completely outside of the part of town I wanted to stay in. I tried to stay positive about the entire situation, but in the end, it was still annoying.

Is this Clean?…

I am a true believer in trying to conform and appreciate the culture, customs, and norms of any country I visit. I think taking this attitude makes for a more enjoyable trip. However, I really had to practice this philosophy during my trip to Morocco, particularly when it came to cleanliness regarding food preparation. You name it, I saw it in Morocco. I will say that I still ate everything and I never once got sick!

• I do not think there was ever a time when I did not see people using bare hands to touch my food. The yummy, homemade bread you can get with meals sometimes is placed on dirty counters or tables to be cut before being served. I usually saw people touching the bread I planned to eat.

• I ate in at least two restaurants where dead animals or dead animal heads hung within a few feet of my table. The food was great and was prepared right in front of me, but I feel like the smell of those animals stayed with me for days.

• You will regularly see people cough without covering their mouths no matter who is near them. I more than once saw people sneeze all over food counters.

• Since Moroccans use donkeys and mules for transportation, you will see them all throughout the medina in Fez. That also means you will be walking through a lot of excrements.

• The Fez medina is a maze and is very tight. There are great food stalls and I highly recommend you do a food tour in Fez. However, I did see quite a few people step on their counters to get from behind their stalls, the same stalls where they place food. Remember the donkeys?

• As people cooked meat dishes, I on occasion saw them place the cooked meat on the same plate they had just used for raw meat without washing the plate first.