Vietnam – Before I Kick it Travel

10 May 20207 August 2020

Coffee in Vietnam: My Favorite Cafes

Coffee in Vietnam! I know it may be strange to have coffee in Vietnam listed on my bucket list. Let me first start by saying that I love a nice, hot cup of coffee almost every morning. Black! No sugar, no milk. I will admit that from time to time I enjoy coffee iced, frozen, or with milk as a treat. There is something so fulfilling and relaxing about opening a bag of coffee beans and breathing in the aroma. To then grind those beans and make a perfect cup of coffee can be even more satisfying. No matter what I am doing, a cup of coffee makes me feel relaxed and I love it.

After doing a couple of food tours in Vietnam, I was so happy to discover that coffee in Vietnam is huge. The coffee culture is so strong that it is hard to walk down any busy street without coming across several cafes. I guess I should not have been so surprised since the French left their mark and its cafe culture in Vietnam after 100 years of occupation. As part of my bucket list food adventures, I had planned to do a coffee tour in Vietnam. However, due to the coronavirus, my tour was canceled. I was grateful that the tour company provided me a list of cafe shops we would have visited, told me what to order, and gave me insights on the coffee.

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Coffee in Vietnam is definitely a treat. The cafes all over the country serve so many different types of coffee. The most traditional coffee in Vietnam is strong, made with Robusta beans, and served with condensed milk. However, even with condensed milk, the coffee still has a very strong flavor.

The coffee is unique because of the technique the Vietnamese use to make it. A small stainless steel filter makes all the difference. They are relatively cheap and if you purchase coffee beans in Vietnam, I highly recommend that you grab a filter at the same time. If cheap kitchenware is not your style, you can also buy colorful ceramic filters too. With so many cafes sprinkled throughout the country, here are a few of my favorites where I think you can find some of the best coffee in the country.

Coffee with condensed milk

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Cafe Dinh is in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and has some of the best egg coffee in the city. The cafe is in a hole in the wall and it is impossible for tourists to find unless they already know what they are looking for. You have to enter a dark alley and climb a flight of stairs before you reach the cafe. You may at first be frightened, but push past that fear because you will be rewarded with one of the best cups of coffee in the city.

Some will say that this cafe is a tourist trap and no local would ever visit. But, I found that to not be true. I went to this cafe a few times and I did not see a single tourist in sight. The cafe itself is dark and the atmosphere feels old world. I just imagine that it was once a place packed with artistic or hip people of the day. I will warn you that smoking is allowed, which is the only downside to this place.

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Egg Coffee

As for the most important part, the egg coffee, it is simply delicious. This specialty coffee originates in Hanoi and is the best city to try it. You may be wondering what in the world is egg coffee? The Vietnamese prepare it with robusta coffee beans, egg yolk, condensed milk and sugar. They beat the egg yolk with sugar and coffee until it makes a sort of fluffy custard. Many people serve it in a bowl of warm water to maintain the temperature of the coffee, but Cafe Dinh does not use that method. I was nervous to try it, but it is the most unique and yummy type of coffee I have ever tasted.

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My second favorite cafe for egg coffee in Vietnam was at Hanoi Egg Coffee. While the name of the cafe may not be original, they serve one of the best egg coffees in the city. This tiny cafe also serves several types of rice wine and snacks like bahn mi. The reason why this cup of egg coffee was beat out by Cafe Dinh, is because I think it’s a tad too sweet for my liking. The Vietnamese use A LOT of sugar in their cuisine and there is no exception for coffee.

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Egg Coffee

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Loading T Cafe in Hanoi is a cute French inspired cafe in the middle of the Old Quarter. While I enjoyed drinking egg coffee a several cafes in the city, I definitely loved the coffee at Loading T the most. They roast their coffee beans with cinnamon sticks, which makes for a very unique and delicious flavor. I tried their regular iced coffee with condensed milk and a frozen coconut coffee. I have never said yum so many times while sipping coffee. If I had spent any significant amount of time in Hanoi, I would have visited this cafe time and time again. Definitely some of the best coffee in Vietnam.

The ambiance of the cafe adds to the entire experience of having a delicious cup of coffee in Vietnam. Loading T is on a small side street in Hanoi. The yellow building looks like something out of an old century story. The cafe is on the top floor and is cute and quaint. French music is softly playing in the background. There are a few cozy tables spread throughout the space. It is inviting and relaxing.

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Frozen Coconut Coffee

Iced Coffee with Condensed Milk

Coffee in Vietnam comes a variety of styles. If what I have mentioned does not sound appealing, then you can also try Vietnamese drip coffee without condensed milk, black iced coffee, fruity coffee, and yogurt coffee. Of these choices, I tried yogurt coffee. It was not horrible, but not my favorite type of coffee in Vietnam. The creamy constancy of yogurt in iced coffee was not that appealing. But, it is worth trying. If you are up for being adventurous, then you should also try weasel coffee. What is weasel coffee? Essentially, it is when weasels have digested and pooped out coffee beans. They sell it throughout Vietnam.

Coffee with yogurt

27 April 202019 May 2020

Food Tours in Vietnam: A Foodie’s Bucket List

Food tours are a must when I travel to any country for the first time and Vietnam was no exception. Food is one of the main reasons I get excited about traveling. I must admit that I love to eat. When I am at home, I spend hours in the kitchen trying to recreate dishes I have tasted around the world. I particularly enjoy Asian food. So, I did a lot of research on Vietnamese cuisine before my first trip to Vietnam. Even if you have a lot of time to explore Vietnam, it will be hard to taste all of the must eat Vietnamese cuisine during your trip. I found the best way to eat my way through the country and to taste all of the traditional and unexpected foods was to by taking a couple of food tours during my trip.

Vietnam Travel Tips: Things You Should Know

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As with most food tours, the tour in Vietnam is not just about stuffing yourself silly. Food Tours in Vietnam give you the chance to learn a lot about the people, culture, a little bit of the language and something about the various regions in the country. Vietnamese consider their food to be a reflection of their values. To find the balance that is good for the body. No matter the region, you will certainly hear the Vietnamese talk about a balance of flavors and temperatures to make up the best dish. They really focus on the six senses as well as food texture. It is very fresh and meats are not cooked for a long time. Lots of vegetables and herbs accompany each dish.

Food, even the same dish, varies by region. So, doing multiple food tours throughout Vietnam is worth it. I found that all Vietnamese food had more sugar in it than I normally eat. But, the flavor and spices in food changes as you travel from the north to the south. With the north making more “bland” dishes, the central part of the country makes more spicy food, and very sweet dishes are served in the South.

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If you get to spend a lot of time in Vietnam and plan to travel to multiple destinations, then I recommend that you do a food tour in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. There are only a few dishes that you are likely to taste on both food tours. Even then, those dishes will be different enough that you will appreciate having tasted them in both cities. If I had had time, I would have also done food tours in Central Vietnam. I loved everything I ate in Hoi An. Sadly, I did not really get the chance to enjoy the food in Hue, which is supposed to be some of the best food in the country.

I recommend that you do some research on food tours in Vietnam before you book anything. There are several types to cater to different needs. Possible experiences include night tours, dinner with the locals, street food tours, or off the beaten path tours. You can also choose between private and group tours or if you want to include sightseeing with your food tasting. I booked a private tour with Get your Guide in Ho Chi Minh City and a group tour with Hanoi Street Food Tour in Hanoi. Both tours were absolutely fantastic.

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If you choose similar tours to the two food tour companies I used, then you will generally have between 8-10 tastings at multiple restaurants around the city. Most food tours will accommodate food allergies. But, if you are a picky eater or have a very restrictive diet, then food tours might not be such a great option. All of the food will be small portions, but you will certainly be stuffed by the end of the tour. Several of the tastings may have a communal diner feel. You may participate in a lot of hands on eating. The Vietnamese serve a lot of fresh food that sometimes consist of wrapping savory bites in lettuce.

Most food tours include all of Vietnam’s must eat foods. I had my fill of noodle soups, Vietnamese pancake, and depending on the region, egg coffee. There may even be a few surprises. One surprise for me was coconut ice cream. I had never seen ice cream like this before; served with old and new sticky rice, coconut chips, sweet potato, and coconut jello. It looked weird, but it tasted fantastic.

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Generally, food tours in Vietnam are 3-4 hours long and are walking tours.

That was my experience in Hanoi, where we did the entire tour in a few blocks in the Ancient City. Things were different in Ho chi Minh City, where food tours cover a lot of ground in a busy city. Many food tours make their way around town by motorbike, which are completely part of the culture. Your tour guide will drive you through the city’s busy and congested streets. It seems like rush hour traffic is all day in Vietnam’s big cities. So, if you are uncomfortable riding a on the back of a motorbike, then I recommend that you look for tours that specifically note they are walking tours

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No matter what you decide, you will absolutely love eating all of Vietnam’s tasty treats. I hope you enjoy Vietnam’s cuisine as much as I did!

11 April 2020

Vietnam Travel Tips: Things You Should Know

From crowded cities, beautiful beaches along the coastline, and the green mountainous regions in the north, there is something for everyone to enjoy in Vietnam. Traveling in Vietnam was a special time for me. It was everything I expected it to be and a lot more. The people are warm and welcoming and the food is delicious. But, I think what surprised me the most was the beautiful architecture and detailed structures. The many places that made me feel at peace and relaxed were a bonus. However, there were a few things I wish I had known or been better prepared for. Here are a few travel tips you should know before your trip.

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Travel Tip 1: Eat Yummy Street Food

If you are traveling in Vietnam, you cannot pass up eating street food. It is not uncommon for you to turn a corner in the major cities and see from anything from just a few people to large crowds of people sitting on plastic chairs at short, small tables at restaurants or enjoying street food. Interesting note is that it is illegal for restaurants to have tables and chairs on the pavement. So, tables are low to the ground and the chairs are short to make it easy for store owners to quickly remove them if the authorities arrive.

Street food is made fresh, is inexpensive, and usually eaten quickly before people carry on with their days. Common dishes are a variety of noodle soups, a Vietnamese pancake, dried beef or papaya salad, and coconut ice cream. I recommend that you do a street food tour to get a good sense of the food culture and to have be able to taste a variety of dishes at one time. The same dish can be served differently based on the region. So, do not hesitate to take multiple food tours during your travels.

Travel Tip 2: Enjoy a Beverage

Big Coffee Culture

I was shocked to learn that Vietnam has a huge coffee culture. I guess I should not have been so surprised since the French were in Vietnam for more than 100 years. And with the French, came its cafe culture. Cafes are sprinkled throughout Vietnamese cities and they a variety of unique coffee drinks. Traditional Vietnamese coffee is very strong and served with condensed milk. Iced coffee with condensed milk is also available, and became one of my favorites during my travels. A signature Vietnamese coffee is egg coffee, which is easiest to find in Hanoi.

Tea is a thing too!

If you prefer tea over coffee, do not worry. Tea is also a huge part of Vietnamese culture. Tea draws people together throughout the day and at social events. Open air tea houses are abundant and easily noticeable in smaller towns like Hoi An. I find Vietnamese tea to be slightly bitter but has a great after taste. My favorite tea house was in Hoi An called The Teahouse. The Teahouse is associated with Reaching Out, whic is run by hearing and speech impaired individuals, who provide a peaceful and beautiful environment.

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Travel Tip 3: Handsy with silverware

One thing I just had to let go of while traveling in Vietnam, is the fact that Vietnamese restaurant staff touch everything that you will probably put in your mouth. While this may go on in restaurants across the US, it is generally not acceptable and most consider it to be unclean. Most restaurants tables will have a silverware holder with spoons, forks, and chopsticks. For some reason, Vietnamese put all of the chopsticks and silverware with the side you put in your mouth facing up. So, when people grab for either of them, people tend to put their hands all over everything.

Travel Tip 4: Doing the dishes

It is not uncommon to see ladies behind restaurants cleaning the dishes in a big bowl on the street. This did not really bother me because I have seem a lot more interesting things during my years of travel, but it might be weird and seem unclean to some people. However, I would prefer to think of it as part of the culture.

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Travel Tip 5: Ride a motorbike

Throughout Vietnam, but especially in the big cities, the motorbike is the easiest form of transportation. My fear of taking a motor taxi quickly disappeared after I hopped on the back of a motorbike my first day in Vietnam. Zipping in and out of traffic along with hundreds of other motorbikes was exciting. I must warn that motorcyclist break the driving rules all of the time. Such as, driving the wrong way down a one way street or driving on the sidewalk to avoid having to circle the block. The motor taxi is a fantastic and cheap way to get around cities with ease and some excitement. My only recommendation is that you use apps like Grab to book a taxi. They will always quote you a price ahead of time, they are generally safe, and you are unlikely to be scammed. Avoid taking any form of motor taxis at night.

Travel Tip 6: A Bike is okay too…

I am not sure I would recommend riding a bike in the bigger cities like Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. But, it is a great way to get around the smaller cities. Bike rental shops are abundant, and most Airbnb provide them free of charge.

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Travel Tip 7: Get a massage

If you are someone who likes to get a massage but it is too expensive in your home country, then Vietnam will be a treat. There are very affordable spa salons throughout the country. Many of them offer spa packages but they will also allow you to change it up and customize your experience. My favorite spa experience was in Hanoi at the Orient.

After walking all day, you should stop by one of the several massage shops that line the streets in all of the major cities to get a foot massage. You can get a one hour foot massage for about $8-10 and they are decent quality. Because there are so many of them, I advise you to shop around. Take a peek into the shop before you go in to see if it meets your standards. Even though the massages are extremely affordable, you still deserve to enjoy the experience.

Travel Tip 8: Make time for the beach

If you have time to explore several parts of Vietnam, I highly recommend building in some beach time. This is especially true if you will be spending any significant amount of time in Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi, both of which can overload the senses. I stayed at the beach in Hue. To hear the crashing waves at night and to see the sunrise over the beach was amazing.

Travel Tip 9: Be spontaneous

I am definitely a planner, which means that I tend to plan out the majority of my trip ahead of time. However, I think that Vietnam is one place where you should build in some time for spontaneity. There are a lot of things that will draw you in, such as tea and coffee shops, beautifully handmade jewelry, or a temple tucked into the middle of a busy city street. You do not want to miss out on the country’s hidden treasures.

Travel Tip 10: Relax and people watch

Take time to sit at one of the many coffee or tea cafes in Vietnam to relax. Most cafes have outdoor seating or windowless shops, so it is easy to grab a chair and watch the different types of people and tourist wander by.

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Yes, Vietnam is safe. There was not a single time during my trip when I felt unsafe. However, I did receive some tips from locals on how to stay safe.

•Do not carry your cell phone in your hand, otherwise you will be an easy target to be robbed. I wanted to be able to take photos on the street and on the back of motor taxis. So, I bought a lanyard case for my iPhone. It served as a deterrent to theft and allowed me to take photos.

•Leave your passport at your accommodations and do not carry around large sums of cash.

•Be careful crossing the street in large cities. I think it is much safer to cross the street in Ho Chi Minh City, were people generally follow the driving rules and street signs. However, Hanoi is a different story. The general rule is to just cross the street without looking drivers in the eye. If they do not think you noticed them, then they are more likely to slow down and let you cross. If they think you see them, they will continue full speed ahead.

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Travel Tip 11: Do not be a target

As a tourist you will easily stand out as a possible target for the locals to take advantage of. I think many of the things you may deal with in Vietnam is fairly normal in most developing nations.

Travel Tip 12: Transportation

Always get a quote before you get into a taxi or motor taxi if the person does not have a meter. The best thing to do is to order a taxi through one of the several apps related to transit in Vietnam, such as Grab. Be aware that some taxi drivers will drive you around in circles and then try to charge you extra money.

Travel Tip 13: Do not be afraid to haggle

Unless you shop only at shops that have fixed price, you will need to haggle to get a “fair” price. Best practice is to start negotiating about half or a third lower than what vendors quote you. You can usually find what you want in multiple stores. So, you should be prepared to walk away if you do not hear a price you are willing to pay.

Travel Tip 14: Be patient

People will ask you to buy what they are selling all day long. It can be annoying after you said no three or four times and people continue to be persistent. I recommend that you take a break and remember that people are trying to make a living. Politely say no thank you.

Want more tips on travel to Vietnam? Check out Travel to Vietnam.

26 March 202010 May 2020

15 Bucket List Things You Should Do In Vietnam

From crowded cities, beautiful beaches along the coastline, and the green mountainous regions in the north, there is something for everyone to enjoy in Vietnam. Vietnam was at the top of my list for bucket list destinations in Asia. I did not do all of the traditional things that most people would consider to be must do bucket list items in Vietnam. I wanted to have enough time to do balance between visiting the sites, eating my way through the country, and having some down time. So, here are my 15 bucket list things you should do to enjoy as much of the country as possible in 2 weeks.

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Visit Ho Chi Minh City

Even though Ho Chi Minh City was not officially on my Bucket List, there is no way I would have traveled to Vietnam without visiting the city. Ho Chi Minh City is one of Vietnam’s most important cities and a popular tourist destination. Its large population, skyscrapers, and tons of traffic may be overwhelming to the senses and make it hard to fully relax. But, it is also full of rich history and beauty that are a must see.

I think it is good to spend at lease one day exploring the city on your own. I love to join tours, but many tour companies in Ho Chi Minh do not give you enough time to let you enter the sites. Instead, you end up standing outside and talking about it. So, it is worth doing a little research and then taking a motor taxi to get round the city on your own. It is very easy and inexpensive to get around the city

I highly recommend that you visit the War Remnants Museum, which focuses on the impact of the Vietnam War on the Vietnamese people as well as the protests around the world against the war. It is a very sobering museum and it made me reflect on what humans, in this case Americans, are willing to do to others.

The Jade Emperor Pagoda is also worth a visit. It is one of the most beautiful and popular attractions in Ho Chi Minh City. Built in 1909 to honor the supreme Jade Emperor Ngoc Hoang, the temple is in the heart of the city. But, as soon as you step through the main gate of the grounds, things slow down and a peace and calm overtakes you.

With all of that said, I still think it is worth doing a day or half day city tour with a guide. You will learn so much more about the city and discover some hidden gems.

When to visit: It is best to go between December and March when it is slightly cooler around 80-90 degrees.
Where to Stay: District 1 is close to all of the action. I stayed just across the Mong bridge in District 4, which is quieter and only a short walk away from District 1.
Tour Company: I booked a half day walking tour of Ho Chi Minh with Tripadvisor.

Go to Mekong Delta

The Mekong Delta is a beautiful and peaceful region in the southern part of the country and should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is made up of rivers, swamps, and islands. The river starts in the Himalayans and passes through China, Thailand, and Cambodia before reaching Vietnam and dumping out into the ocean. You could easily spend several days to a couple of weeks exploring the floating markets, pagodas, orchards, and bio reserves. However, if you only have a limited amount of time, day tours from Ho Chi Minh City are easy. The day trips are a tad touristy, but they are still worth the experience. Even in one day, you can have several cultural adventures, such as boating on the Mekong River and riding bikes in the country side.

When to visit: Any time of the year is good to go except for the rainy season from May to October.
How to get there: If you are doing a day tour, then Getyourguide is a great option. If you plan to stay longer, here are several options on how to get there.

Do a food tour in HCMC

For me, food is such an important category on my bucket list. Not only because good food is amazing, but food tells you a lot about the country. I try to do a food tour in every new county I visit. They are special because you visit places you may have never otherwise found and try dishes you have never heard about. And, since Vietnam is a food powerhouse, I could not visit without doing one in Ho Chi Minh City. As a matter of fact, since the food varies from north to south, it is worth doing multiple tours throughout the country.

In Ho Chi Minh City, many of the food tour companies make a lot of stops that do not include tastings so you end up on a historical tour rather than a food tour. If that is what you are looking for, then that perfect. However, I really just wanted to eat! My research for the perfect tour paid off. I spent the night on the back of a motor scooter, zipping in and out of traffic, and eating a variety of some most delicious food in the city.

Tour Company: I booked my tour with Get Your Guide. There are a lot of options, so just do a little bit of research if my recommendation does not appeal to you.
When to go: It is never a bad time to do a food tour. But, doing it at the beginning of your trip is better so you time to revisit your favorite places.

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Bánh Xèo (pancake)

Coconut Ice Cream

Bún Chả (Obama Noodles)

Visit Hoi An Ancient Town

Hoi An was one of my favorite cities in Vietnam. It is my bucket list goal is to visit at least 300 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, naturally, I had to visit Hoi An. Its status has made the city become very touristy and crowded in recent years. However, I traveled during the rise of the coronavirus. So, It was extremely quiet in the city, which allowed me to enjoy it in an unexpected way. Hoi An is very colorful with its yellow, timber houses and multicolored lanterns all over the city.

Its streets are full of shops and restaurants. An occasional unexpected temple, theater, or bridge will surprise you. If you really want to enjoy the city before the crowds arrive, wake up early and stroll around. Your only company will be an occasional runner and the morning market, which is a madhouse between 6-8am. Hoi An lights up at night as all of the boats covered in multicolored lit lanterns cruise up and down the Thu Bồn River . The night market is lively and full of souvenir stalls and street food.

When to go: The best time of year to go is during dry season between February and April.
Where to stay: An Airbnb is a great option. Stay just outside of the ancient city to stay away from the noisy night market.
Favorite restaurant: I loved Morning Glory. My favorite dish was the Cao lầu, which is a regional noodle dish. I also had the best Bahn Mi at Bánh Mì Phượng. Bahn Mi is a traditional sandwich that is normally eaten at breakfast.
Tip: Visit one of the many yellow booths throughout the city to buy a pass to visit 5 of the 20 historical sites in the city.

Scooter Tour in Hoi An

If you want to get outside of Hoi An’s busy city center, then you can take a scooter tour of the countryside. It is a fantastic opportunity to see how locals live and experience the country’s authentic culture. This tour is a self drive tour. After about 5 minutes practice on the bike, you take off into the city’s traffic. Luckily, traffic is only a fraction of what it is in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Unfortunately, I never really mastered how to ride the scooter. While, I was able to manage the streets, for some reason making a sharp turns always landed me in a wall or rice paddy! If riding a scooter is not really your thing, then you can also ride bicycles in the countryside.

Visit My Son Sanctuary

If you have a few days in Hoi An, you should take a day trip to My Son Sanctuary. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, My Son Sanctuary is a cluster of ruined Hindu temples. The Kings of Champa and Cham people built them between the 4th and 14th centuries. There are 71 rediscovered structures that are grouped together over two kilometers. They are architecturally interesting and show a level of technological sophistication for the time. Considering that these structures have been around for centuries, it is an interesting note that they were not constructed with mortar. If you can manage to visit around sunrise before the crowds arrive, you will be able to take a moment and enjoy the site in peace.

When to visit: It is best to go early in the morning around sunrise to avoid the crowds and hot temperatures. Early to late afternoon when the tourist have fled is also a great time.
How to get there: I booked a tour through Viator. They picked us up from our hotel and the guide was fantastic.

Marble Mountain

Marble Mountain is a cluster of five marble and limestone hills, named after the elements, not far from Da Nang city in Central Vietnam. The mountains were once a spiritual destination for Vietnamese aristocracy and Mahayana Buddhists. This site actually amazed me. I had zero expectations of Marble Mountain and stumbled upon it on my drive from Hoi An to Hue. There are lots surprises along the mountains, to include caves, tunnels and temples to explore. It is definitely one place that will make you wonder how did the Vietnamese created such a marvelous place without modern technology.

When to go: It is best do go during dry season since marble will be quite slick during the rainy season. Go early in the day to avoid the heat and tourists. It could take you several hours to see everything without feeling rushed.
Note: There are a lot of steps. Even if you decide to take the elevator to the top of the mountain instead of climbing, there are still a ton of steps at the top. Make sure to wear proper shoes.

Lap An Lagoon

Lap An Lagoon in Hue is definitely at the top of my list of favorite places in Vietnam. It was one of the most peaceful parts of my journey. I was there on a cloudy day, which made it even more mystical. I only discovered this place because it was listed as a place to stop on my drive from Hoi An to Hue. The water is crystal clear and you can enjoy a peek at sea life just below the surface. Sand dunes stretch from the bank out into the lagoon. You can stroll out to the water’s edge to take a look at some of nearby fishing boats.

The Vietnamese have definitely cater to tourist by setting up places to take photos, and I do not blame them. It is one of those scenes that I have only seen in beautiful paintings. Luckily, there were few people around and I was able to steal a few beautiful pictures. There is also a great seafood restaurant near by, and the option to buy affordable pearls.

When to go: It is best to go between March and June when it is dry and warm.
How to get there: It is easy to take a day tour from Hue or you can make a stop at the lagoon if you are driving from Hoi An to Hue.

Drive from Hoi An to Hue

I originally viewed hiring a car to get from Hoi An to Hue as a means to an end. Instead, it should have been included on my bucket list. A good way to see part of Vietnam in one day without having to take multiple trips is to drive from Hoi An to Hue (or vise versa) and make stops along the way. Better yet, you can do what I did and hire a driver. It is actually fairly inexpensive and a great way to see the country in a stress free way. There are many options, but I recommend stopping at Marble Mountain, Lap An Lagoon, Hai Van Pass, and see the An Bang Cemetery. It will take you a full day, about 8 hours to see everything at your leisure.

Tour company: BNT Travel was a great company because we never felt rushed throughout our entire journey. The driver did not really speak a lick of English but that ended up not being a problem.

Lang Co beach

Spend time in Hue

When I added Hue to my bucket list, I was not expecting to find such an interesting city. There are so many beautiful and interesting things to see in Hue. The Imperial City, also known as the Citadel, is inside of the city center and is one of the main draws to the city. The Imperial City was home to the first emperor of the Nguyen Dynasty. That makes sense, as that name is sprinkled all over Vietnam. These beautiful structures were once home to the country’s capital and the seat of bureaucracy. The complex is huge, so you should give yourself at least 2 hours to walk the grounds and take in all of the colors and structures.

If you only have one day in Hue, you can easily fit in a few more things. I recommend visiting the tombs of the Ancient Emperors, Tu Duc, Mihn Mang, and Khai Dinh. The tombs are like large, tranquil gardens. You should also squeeze in a visit to the Tu Hieu Pagoda. It is one of the most popular pagoda’s in the city and is beautiful.

If you have more time to enjoy Hue, then there is a lot more you can do. I highly recommend that you enjoy a stroll along the Perfume River or do a food tour of some of the best cuisine in the country. Also, the beach is far from the city center, but worth visiting.

Where to stay: As my third stop in Vietnam and no beach time up to my arrival in Hue, I decided to stay outside of the city center at the beach at Ana Mandera Hue. The hotel room was absolutely beautiful. The food was slightly overpriced and not as good as food in town. However, I think that is generally expected at resorts.
Tips: Make sure you bring sunscreen, a hat, and lots of water. There is very little refuge from the sun at many of the sites in Hue. The heat and humidity can be stifling.

Visit Hanoi

Just like Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi does not have to be on your official bucket list for you to realize that it is worth visiting. If you plan to spend any significant time in Vietnam, then you should visit Hanoi. Even though it was my least favorite city in the country, it is still fascinating. Hanoi is overcrowded and seems to be slightly dirtier than other cities in Vietnam. It was slightly overwhelming, even though I was traveling during the coronavirus outbreak and Hanoi was much quieter than normal.

The easiest way to see the city is to book a tour. Most city tours include visiting the highlights, such as the Hanoi Opera House, Temple of Literature & National University, and One Pillar Pagoda. If you are lucky you will end the tour with traditional Vietnamese street food and coffee.

When to go: The best time to go is between February – April and October – November to avoid the unforgiving summer heat and the rainy season respectively.
Tour Company: Viator
Where to stay: I chose an Airbnb outside of the old city to have a little peace and quiet. However, I had to walk at least a 25 minute to the old city everyday. You can also take Grab to get around. They are quick and inexpensive. If I had to do it over again, I would have stayed in the old city just for convenience.

Do a food tour in Hanoi

Food is so important to my bucket list travels and adventures. This is particularly true in Vietnam, where the food is so amazing and different depending on the region. So, doing a second food tour on this trip was a great decision. I was amazed that the food tour in Hanoi included several things I had never heard of, even after spending nearly two weeks traveling in Vietnam. I visit 8 restaurants and experienced 10 tastings. It was some of the best traditional food in the city.

When to go: Food tours are great no matter the time of year. I recommend that you take the tour at the beginning of your trip so you can return to your favorite spots.
Tour Company: Hanoi Street Food Tour

Egg Coffee

Bún Chả (Obama Noodles)

Nộm bò khô (dried beef salad)

Visit Hanoi’s Coffee Shops

I never considered putting coffee on my bucket list. It’s something most people drink everyday without much consideration. I heard that coffee was a thing in Vietnam, but I was surprised by how much. Many Vietnamese homes are small, which makes it difficult to host people. Therefore, there are hundreds of cafes sprinkled throughout the city to give people a place to relax and chat with friends while enjoying great coffee, coffee drinks, or tea. I really loved all of my coffee experiences from traditional Vietnamese coffee to coconut coffee. It was all so different and unique from what I’ve ever experienced before and simply delicious.

Favorite Cafes:

Cafe Dinh: You will see very few tourists in this cafe and it is slightly hard to find. It is best known for it’s egg coffee.
Loading T: This was my favorite cafe. It has an old French vibe that is further emphasized by the French music playing in the background. They roast their coffee beans with cinnamon sticks so the coffee has a unique flavor. The best thing to get is the regular coffee with condensed milk or the frozen coconut coffee. I had both!
Hanoi Egg Coffee: Yes, this is the name of the coffee shop. I enjoyed my first egg coffee at my shop and was immediately hooked.

Egg Coffee from Cafe Dinh

Go to the Spa

Visiting the spa in Vietnam is not generally on most people’s bucket lists. However, it should be! You can visit the many spas through the entire country and will walk away relaxed and satisfied. After walking around for hours you should definitely take advantage of the many places to get a 30, 45, or 60 minute foot massage all for about $10 or less. Because there are so many, you should absolutely be picky. Most massage salons are open so you can peek in from the outside. Make sure the chairs are clean and the location has a spa environment, if that is what you are expecting. If you have more time, I highly recommend getting several spa treatments. They will be high quality and a fraction of the price you would pay in the West.

Favorite Spa: Orient Spa Hanoi

Halong Bay

Halong Bay, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a must see item on my bucket list. It is one of the most sought out tourist destinations in Vietnam. Its beautiful emerald waters and tall limestones sprinkled throughout the bay are the draw. With more than 1,600 islands, there are several places to snorkel, kayak, hike, and visit secret lagoons.

How to get there: The best way to enjoy Halong Bay is to take a boat tour. There is everything from day boat tours to several day cruises. There are many tour companies to fit various budgets.
When to go: Usually between March and May and September to December.

22 March 202010 May 2020

Traveling to Asia During Coronavirus

Traveling to Asia during coronavirus was interesting and at times worrisome. I recently returned from Vietnam and a lot has changed around the world in the last few weeks. I wanted to share my experience, not to sway people on whether or not they should travel. That of course is up to each person to decide for themselves. Rather, I would like to highlight what it was like traveling to Asia during a global crisis.

I was a little worried about traveling to Asia during the coronavirus. It was less about getting sick, even though I definitely did not want that to happen. The surge of global cases was just starting, so I was more concerned with the possibility of having to cancel my plans. My mind had been set on going to Vietnam in early 2020 for more than two years. I have not met a single person who did not enjoy their time in the country. So, my excitement only grew as time drew closer. Then in January, the world started to hear about people getting sick in China. Even though my flight was supposed to transit Beijing, I did not give it a second thought at the time. Even as China quarantined the entire city of Wuhan, I told myself that at least it was not Beijing.

Then, things started to rapidly change. Traveling to Asia started to become increasingly more difficult. Airlines canceled flights to China, to include Vietnam. Now I was worried. I knew it was only a matter of time before Vietnam would not except travelers who transited China. So, I proactively changed my flight with United Airlines free of charge for piece of mind.

In the lead up to my trip to Vietnam, it was hard to watch and read the daily news. The number of infected and deaths continued to rise. Just days before boarding the plane, South Korea, Italy, and Iran had huge spikes in cases. Fear began to set in that I would have to cancel my trip. Mostly, it was a fear of being trapped or being quarantined. If a single person on a plane or train, or someone in a hotel tested positive for the coronavirus, it would have changed everything. Most of my friends and family asked me if it was wise to be traveling to Asia during this time.

With all of that said, I still wanted to go on vacation. So, here is what was it like traveling to Asia in February and March 2020 as coronavirus cases around the globe began to spike.

On my way to Vietnam, I had several travel legs. Every experience was different at each airport. While they all acknowledged that the world was in crisis over the coronavirus, there were very few overt measures in place during most of my trip.

In the days leading up to my trip, Europe saw a spike in cases of those infected with the coronavirus. My first transit point was Frankfurt and it felt like business as usual. They were not doing temperature checks, at least none that I saw. Only one person asked me if I had recently traveled to China and hardly anyone was wearing face masks. The next leg of my trip was to Thailand. I saw more people wearing face masks, but airport officials did not check temperatures or ask any questions about previous travel.

On my return trip from Vietnam, I transited Japan. I was fortunate enough to be able to use miles to sit in first class. The first class lounge put restrictions on travelers’ activities and they limited people’s contact with other each other to prevent the spread of the coronavirus. Most airport personnel wore face masks, but only person asked me if I had transited China. Besides the fact that not a single flight I took was full, my trip seemed mostly normal.

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Ho Chi Minh City, one of Vietnam’s major cities, still felt crowded but there were clearly fewer tourist around. And, the Vietnamese were definitely concerned about the spread of the coronavirus. As soon as I got into the taxi at the airport in Ho Chi Minh City, my driver asked, “have you heard of corona?” When I responded yes, he asked me where was my mask.

The people sitting at the front desk of my Airbnb apartment building took my temperature. I also had to give them a copy of my passport just in case I or someone else in the building got sick. That way they would be able to do accountability for travelers. However, they only checked my temperature once, so I’m not sure their methods were effective.

Some public places, like the Jade Emperor Pagoda, had signs asking that everyone wear a face mask. While other places, such as the War Remnants Museum, would not let you enter the premises without taking your temperature.

Traveling to the Mekong Delta was calm and peaceful and it felt like the pandemic was happening a world away. All of the tourists still washed their hands or used sanitizer regularly. But, everyone on the trip shared a communal meal and spent an entire day together in close proximity.

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As I traveled to the central part of Vietnam, people seemed to be slightly more relaxed but still had their guards up. People definitely wore face masks. But, I was surprised that my Airbnb host in Hoi An did not talk to me at all about the coronavirus. And, they did not ask me a single question about my recent travel or did they take my temperature. There was a noticeable difference in Hue, possibly because I stayed at a hotel. They not only took my temperature, but asked me several questions about previous travel and how long I spent in each location.

The biggest and saddest sign of the coronavirus in central Vietnam was the lack of people. Chinese and South Koreans make up the large majority of the some 5 million people who travel to Hoi An and Hue each year. Since Vietnam put travel restrictions on both of these countries, the towns and all major sites were nearly bare. I never expected to have such freedom to roam Vietnam. When visited tourist sights that are normally extremely crowded, I was able ot take photos without a single person in my shot.

My Son Sanctuary

The Citadel, Hue

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My luck started to change as I traveled to Hanoi. Just a day before I had arrived in the city, a woman returning from London tested positive for the virus. She was staying within a few minutes walk from my Airbnb and the government had locked down the streets surrounding her house. They also quarantined at least 200 people and isolated another 500. Because of widespread panic, my taxi service was nervous about dropping me off at my Airbnb. Also, one tour company canceled my tour since they considered my location too close to the outbreak zone.

For the first time during my trip, my anxiety started to build. I was not so much worried about getting sick. But, I was worried about being quarantined in Vietnam or the US.

At the time, there was little I could do to change my trip or the situation besides wash my hands and clean surfaces I came in contact with. So, I enjoyed the rest of my trip. As someone new to the city, Hanoi’s old city seemed to be alive and packed. But, the locals made it clear that tourism was down because of the coronavirus. And, just like Hoi An and Hue, tourist sites in Hanoi were bare, hardly a person in sight

My final destination in Vietnam was to Halong Bay, which most consider to be one of the most touristy sites in the country. It normally has 5,000 to 6,000 tourists everyday, largely Chinese and South Koreans. However, during my time in Vietnam, the government forced companies to limited the number tours to Halong Bay because they had confirmed cases on one of the islands. Every site we visited turned out to be fairly empty and I hardly saw anyone who was not in my tour group.

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It’s getting hot in here…

During my trip, I do not think I chatted with a single Vietnamese person who did not say that it was too hot for the virus to survive in the country. Of course, that information is questionable since places like Singapore and Australia continue to see new cases. The virus is new and scientists are still trying to understand how the virus will behave in warmer weather.

Cover your mouth!

There are lots of interesting things you will discover while traveling in Asia. One thing that I found to be particularly odd, is that I rarely saw anyone cover their mouth when they sneezed or coughed. Considering all that is happening around the world because of coronavirus as well as the new outbreak in Vietnam, I was really puzzled by this.

The face mask

It is more common to see people in Asia wearing a face mask regardless of coronavirus. So, without fail, it seemed like almost everyone on the street wore a face mask. Probably because wearing a masks provides some sort of false comfort. However, most people did not properly wear them or wore them for way too long to be effective. Occasionally, I saw people take off their mask to openly cough or sneeze, and then put the mask back on. It was unbelievable.

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It has been three weeks since I boarded a plane from the United States and just one week since I returned from my trip to Vietnam. Life in both countries has changed quite a bit in that short time because of coronavirus. As I finish this post, more than 85 people in Vietnam have been infected. That is up from 16 just three weeks ago. As for the United States we have gone from about 65 cases when I started my vacation to more than 24,000 today. That number will surly be higher before I publish. We have gone from a country with a vibrant economy, to more than 2 million filling for unemployment benefits this week alone.

Travel to pretty much every country on the globe has been suspended, schools are closed, and business have stopped operating. It is unclear what the next few weeks or months will bring. But, I am so grateful that I got to visit one of the most beautiful and fun countries I have been to in a long time. I am looking forward for things to get back to normal. Then, we will all once again share our cultures and ways of life with each other!

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