Safari in Kenya: An Ultimate Guide

When I started my bucket list in 2010, I never imagined that I would be able to do so many things on it so quickly. Going on safari seemed like an item that I would check off in the very distant future. However I was able to check off safari in Kenya early in my bucket list journey. I have been fortunate to have been on five safaris over the years.

Zoos are not my thing, so I did not think I would love safaris. Finding a pride of lions, a herd of elephants, or even a momma warthog with her surprisingly cute piglets (yes…that’s what they are called!) made me fall in love with nature in unexpected ways.

By far, the Maasai Mara (commonly called the Mara) in the Kenya Rift Valley Province is the most popular safari destination. Home to the Maasai people, the Mara has beautiful, iconic landscape. It provides the backdrop to experiencing animals in their natural habitat. The Mara is where the Great Migration takes place. As a result, you can easily find the “big five” (the African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard, African lion, and African black rhino). If I could do only one thing in Kenya, this would be it!

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You have decided to go on safari in Africa and you are wondering how to get you planning started. It can feel daunting to plan travel to Africa in generally, especially if it is your first time to the continent.

I rarely use travel agents, however, I highly recommend using a travel agent to plan your safari. It will make the entire process much easier. Instead of using a US-based travel agency, I always use Nairobi-based Travel Affairs to book all of my travel inside of the country and to neighboring African countries. They are friendly and helpful. The agents have an understanding of the wide variety of safari camps and they can provide recommendations depending on the type of experience you want to have.

Where to stay

The Maasai Mara is the most popular destination in Kenya for safari, but there are certainly other gems. Ol Pejeta near Mount Kenya and Amboseli are two other areas I have visited. The Kenya Wildlife Service maintains hundreds of safari parks all over the country.

There are different safari experiences, but most include sleeping in a tent. No ordinary tent of course. Well, they zip up like a regular tent and sort of look like one from the outside. Once inside, you will find plush beds and full bathrooms.

You do not have to completely break the bank to go on safari. But, I do prefer the semi to luxury tent experience because it is all inclusive, has 5 star food and gives you the chance to customize your drive times.

My Favorite Camps: 

When to go

You can go on Safari any time of the year, however, the best time is from June – October when it is the dry season. The Great Migration, when hundreds of thousands of wildebeests and zebras migrate from Tanzania to Kenya, also happens this time of year.

The highlight is to see the animals cross the Mara River. The wildebeests and zebra line up and sometimes wait for an hour before making the decision to cross. I understand the dilemma. Crocodiles line the river banks and hope they make a kill and fill their bellies.

For some strange reason, after so much contemplation and risk, they often times just turn around and cross the river again. Because of the large volume of animals, there is also an increased possibility to see a lion or cheetah hunt or kill! Pick a safari camp that is near the Mara River. This will reduce drive times to get to the action.

Safari in Kenya

I would avoid going on safari during the rainy season. Many safari camps in the Maasai Mara shut down during part of the long rains from April – early June.

You should work with a travel agent to map out the best safari camps to visit during this time. The short rains, November – December, are less challenging and safari camps are open.

Safari in Kenya

Besides lots of animals, migration season is crowded with people and it is the most expensive time to travel. I personally think it is worth it. If you do not like crowd, you should travel in between the rainy seasons, slightly before or after migration.

Many safari camps offer great deals during the low season. You will still have the chance to see the big five (the African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard, African lion, and African black rhino).

How many days on safari

I recommend spending only 2-3 days on safari. If it took you days to get to the Mara, you will  be tempted to spend a week trying to locate the hard to find leopard (it took me 5 trips). However, bumping around in a dusty vehicle for more than 3 days will mostly likely start to wear on you.

Instead, I you should take the extra days to spend time in Nairobi, travel to  Naivasha, or visit the beautiful Kenyan coast. In three days, you generally will do about 5 game drives. That’s plenty of time to have a memorable experience.

What to Pack

Safaris can be dusty and temperatures can fluctuate greatly over the course of several hours. here are my recommendations on what you should include on your packing list. 

  • Enough clothing to dress in layers
  • Light jacket
  • Scarf
  • A hat
  • Sunscreen and sunglasses
  • Backpack
  • Flashlight or headlamp
  • Bug/mosquito repellant
  • Camera and long distance lens if you have one
  • Lens cleaning cloth

 

Day Trips from Nairobi: 5 Great Getaways

I think Kenya as a whole is such a beautiful country. There is so much to see and experience that it could take you years to uncover all of its treasures. Most travelers only get to visit Nairobi and the safari camps. However, if you have time, there are several day trips from Nairobi worth taking. Here are 5 great getaway trips that are easy to get to within two hours of the city limit that I recommend.

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Lake Naivasha

One nicest day trips outside of Nairobi is a visit to Lake Naivasha. About 90 minutes outside of Nairobi, Lake Naivasha is a perfect destination to experience nature in a different way than a traditional safari. Lake Naivasha is a freshwater lake located northwest of Nairobi and is part of the Great Rift Valley. Named Nai’posha, meaning ‘rough water,’ by the Maasai for the sudden rain storms that cause rough, high waves.

The lake is home to over 1500 hippos and 400 different species of birds, making it a great place for nature lovers. Boat trips can be taken from many lakeside lodges and campsites. It’s a good opportunity to see the hippos up close, but proceed with care.

They are the most dangerous animals in Africa; strong swimmers and runners (for short distances). To give you an idea of their strength, only the female hippo bite strength has been measured because the male is too aggressive to test.

  • Cost: $20-25 for boat/$30 for Crescent Island
  • When to go: All year around
  • What to bring: Sunscreen, lots of water, snacks
  • Wildlife: variety of wildlife
Day Trips from Nairobi

The lake is surrounded by the most beautiful forests of yellow Acacia Xanthophlea trees. While on your day trip to the lake, make a stop at Crescent Island to get an even closer look at non-predatory animals, such as the giraffe, which were born on the island.

Day Trips from Nairobi
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Mount Longonot

Traveling to Mount Longonot was one of the hardest day trips I took from Nairobi. An inactive volcano almost 9000ft above sea level, Mt. Longonot offers one of the most difficult hikes and some of the most beautiful views in Kenya.

 

Less than 40 miles outside of Nairobi, Mt. Longonot National Park gives you a chance to see if you can keep up with the Kenyans on this difficult hike. Try not to be embarrassed as they pass you barely breaking a sweat and hiking in flip flops with ease.

The hike is steep and the terrain is made mostly of volcanic rock and fine dust, which can be slippery and becomes muddy when it rains. There are several view points along the way. Most of my group was not fit, but it would have certainly helped.

The hike takes about an hour from the Park Gate to reach the rim and a little more than an hour to hike around the rim, so plan for 4 hours total. Unless you are an avid hiker, you will be proud of yourself once you complete the journey. I highly recommend packing a snack or lunch and bring lots of water and sunscreen. 

  • Cost: $26
  • When to go: All year around
  • What to bring: Sunscreen, hat, and snacks
  • Wildlife: Buffalos, Gazelles, Impala and Giraffe

Hell’s Gate National Park

Hell’s Gate National Park was one of my favorite day trips from Nairobi. Looking for a less intensive hike than Mount Longonot with the same reward of beautiful landscapes and views? Hell’s Gate National Park is Mt. Longonot and Lake Naivasha’s neighbor in the Great Rift Valley and the location of what the Lion King location is based from. It is rocky and covered ash from the last volcanic eruption at Mt. Longonot, but a relatively easy hike. Established in 1984, it is home to many forms of wildlife. It is definitely my favorite hike! 

When you arrive, there are guides available to take you on the hike, which I highly recommend. They not only show you the way, but they help you navigate slightly difficult terrain. It takes about 2-4 hours to hike, depending on your speed and if you choose to visit pride rock.

  • Cost: $26pp, approx. $20 per group for a guide
  • When to go: All year around
  • What to bring: Sunscreen, water
  • Wildlife: buffalo, zebra, eland, hartebeest, Thomson’s gazelle and baboons are common. There are over 100 species of birds in the park.
Day Trips from Nairobi

Brown’s Cheese

Brown’s Cheese is one of the closest day trips from Nairobi. One thing I love about Kenya are the gems you can find outside of the city. Kenya is not generally known for its cheese. As a matter of fact, Brown’s Cheese, an all natural cheese company, started because cheese was hard to find in Kenya up until 1979 when Brown’s Cheese was established.

Brown’s Cheese is located about an hour outside of the city center on a beautiful farm in the middle of the tea plantations in Limuru, Kenya. It offers tours of its factories and farm and lunch where you can tastes their yummy cheese.

I have done this day trip and tour three times. When you arrive, they serve homemade lemonade or some other homemade, refreshing drink. The cheese platter is accompanied with homemade bread and jams. They provide a tasting menu card that describes the cheese and the best jam parings. Since their cheeses do not contain additives, coloring, or coating the taste is super fresh. I am not a fan of stinky cheeses, but their feta and blue cheeses are my favorites.

After the cheese tasting, lunch is served, followed by homemade ice cream.  I recommend the salted caramel!

  • Cost: Approximately $40
  • When to go: All year around
Day Trips from Nairobi

Kiambethu Tea Farm

Kiambethu Tea Farm is also one of the easiest day trips from Nairobi. It is also located in Limuru, in the rolling hills covered tea plants, the Kiambethu Tea Farm was established in 1910 and is still run by the same family.

The farm is very peaceful. You can enjoy a cup of tea, hear the history of the farm, and then walk through the indigenous forest surrounding the farm.

A homemade, delicious three-course lunch will be awaiting you upon your return from the walk. It is recommended you book in advance, as space is limited and tours are generally offered once a day.

  • Cost: Approximately $35
  • When to go: All year around
  • What to bring: A light jacket

How to Spend One Day In Nairobi

Kenya as a whole is one of the most beautiful countries I have visited. Its capital city Nairobi is definitely one of my favorite cities on the planet.  It was the first Sub-Saharan African country that I visited. During this time, I discovered that it is such an interesting and cosmopolitan city. I had already been to North Africa or other Arab countries, however, those parts of Africa are quite different than Sub-Saharan Africa. Culturally, they seem more like the Middle East. So, I did not know what to expect to see or experience when I landed in Nairobi. There is so much to experience there, so it is hard to imagine spending just one day in Nairobi.

As a hub for East Africa, it is a very busy city with lots of character and charm. I have spent A LOT of time in Nairobi. Despite that, I still feel like there is so much I have not seen or experienced. It is the only place in the world where you can shop, eat, and experience a happening night life in the vicinity of a national park where wild animals roam freely and have occasionally made their way out to the city streets.

I know that many people traveling to Kenya only stop in Nairobi before transiting to the Mara or other safari locations. To truly get a feel for Nairobi, I recommend dedicating at least 3-4 days of your trip just to Nairobi. However, if you only have one day, I still think it is worth your time.

 To make things easy no matter how much time you have, you can book a tour that will hit most of the city’s highlights through Viator.com. If you want a little more freedom, you can easily navigate the city by hiring a taxi driver for the day for approximately the same cost as a tour.

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Nairobi in One Day_Lion

The Nairobi National Park is a safari park located in Nairobi’s city center. Because of its accessibility, the the National Park is one of the most visited safari parks in the country. It is something you should not miss if you have several hours to spend in Nairobi. It is an especially great alternative, if going to a safari park outside of Nairobi is not an option. The park is the only one in the world where animals roam freely in a loosely enclosed space in the middle of a major city. There you can view zebras, lions, buffalo, rhinoceros and skyscrapers at the same time. There are over 400 species of some of the most colorful birds in the world the park. The only significant animal missing is the elephant because it needs a lot more space to roam than what the park offers.

As with any safari, you should visit early in the morning or later in the day when the animals are most active. Arriving early also gives you enough time to hit the other tourist highlights in Nairobi in the same day.

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During my first trip to Kenya, I fell in love with elephants and it would have been hard not to after visiting the Sheldrick Elephant and Rhino Orphanage in Nairobi.

All of the elephants are orphans, usually due to poaching. Sometimes momma elephants die of natural causes, reject their young or from time to time the baby elephant may be too weak to keep up with the herd.

Elephants are full of personality, which will be evident during your visit. What I love is that each elephant is assigned a keeper. They feed them every few hours and sleep with them through the night. They essentially be come their new moms.

For 500 shillings (approx $5), you can visit the orphanage during a public feeding of some 20 elephants aged from a couple of months to three years old. In about 30-40 minutes time, you will hear stories about each elephant, watch them drink milk from huge bottles, and enjoy their play time. I recommend that you arrive at least 30 minutes early to queue up. Crowds are generally large and you will want to be up front to have the best view of the elephants.

Nairobi
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Nairobi

How many times can you say that you had the opportunity to get up and close with a Giraffe? Giraffes make my favorite animal list. Their tall, lanky legs give a kick powerful enough to kill a lion and their beautiful eyelashes seduce you. They are just magnificent creatures.

Sadly, the number of Giraffes left on earth has fallen by at least 40 percent in the past 15 years. For some species, it has fallen by almost 80 percent. The Giraffe Center in Nairobi helps breed giraffes in their natural habitat to boost the population. Calves are released into the wild at two to three-years-old when they are independent enough to survive on their own. So far, the center has released 40 giraffes into game parks around the country.

For 1000 shillings (approx $10), visitors can learn about giraffes in Africa and discovering how the center cares for them. One of the highlights of your visit will be be feeding the Giraffes from a a tall platform. Giraffes are very sociable and will eat right from your hand. Some people are courageous enough to put the treats in their mouths to receive a very wet kiss from the giraffes.

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Nairobi has a vibrant shopping scene, where you can get anything from traditional African products and souvenirs to handmade customized furniture. Some of my favorite products are handmade clothing, jewelry and leather handbags. Whenever I travel to a new country, I try to buy earrings made in that country. So, I bought a lot of earrings ranging from very inexpensive to very expensive jewels during my time there.

One of my favorite places to buy jewelry is at the Kazuri Bead Factory. Located in Karen, Nairobi, single mothers make ceramic beads and pottery by hand, which are sold all over Nairobi. If you visit the factory, you can choose from a large variety of earrings, necklaces, and bracelets as well as some pottery. You will also get to meet the women who complete the long, multi-step process to produce beautiful and unique pieces of jewelry.

5 Tips for Easy Travel in Kenya

travel in kenya

Travel in Kenya is probably one of the highlights of my all of may travel experiences. I love all the many facades of the country. From city life, to the mountains; from the coast to safari parks, there is so much to love about this country. As much as I enjoy traveling on the African continent, it can be a little daunting if it is your first time traveling there no matter the country. Kenya is no exception. Here are my 5 tips for travel in Kenya to hopefully make your experience more enjoyable.

1. Getting Around Kenya

One of the hardest things about travel to Kenya can be getting around the country. If it is your first time in Kenya, I recommend using a Nairobi-based travel agency, Travel Affairs, to book travel around the country and all of your safaris. To get around Nairobi and for day trips to the surrounding areas, you should hire a taxi for the day. It is completely normal and fairly affordable for the amount of things you can see in one day in the city.

I almost exclusively use Moshel Tours and Travel run by a great guy named Moses (+254 726937965/Moses.mbogo@yahoo.com). Moses has a fleet of drivers who you can call anytime of the day to help you get around the city. He even owns a safari vehicle with an open top, perfect for a safari in the Nairobi National Park. I have used and relied on his company since 2012 for almost all of my travel in Nairobi as well as travel outside of the city.

If you would prefer to book a tour, Viator.com, is a great option.  I use Viator for most of my travels. Regardless of what you chose, for about 7-8 hours of sightseeing in Nairobi, you should pay no more than $100-120.

I would avoid riding in boda bodas (motorcycle taxi) because traffic is crazy and they are more prone to getting into accidents. I would avoid matatus (van taxi) because they are generally packed with riders, do not follow the rules of the road, and you risk being robbed. Finally, I would not take an Uber in Nairobi. Things may have changed, but Uber drivers occasionally come under attack from other taxi drivers because Uber offers lower prices. Make sure you take reputable taxis. You put yourself at a higher risk of being in an accident in non-reputable taxis. Others may disagree, but I’ve spent a lot of time in Kenya and that is my take.

2. What to Pack: Bring layers

Travel in Kenya will require you to pack for a range of weather you may experience in one trip. The equator runs through Kenya, so one would think that it is blazing hot all of the time. Well, not quite. Elevation in Nairobi is 5,889 feet (1,795 meters) above sea level, so the temperature is fairly pleasant all year, averaging in the 70s. In the winter months (June – September), temperatures can drop to the 40s at night and in the summer (December – March), temperatures can rise to almost 90 degrees.

However, travel to Kenya during all times of the year, it tends to be a tad cooler in the mornings and evenings. It’s best to pack a pair of pants and a jacket regardless of when you travel. This is especially true on Safari. Game drives start early in the morning when it is chilly but can become uncomfortably hot during the day.

Of course, if you are traveling to the mountains, it will be cold, the rest of the country fairly hot all year, and the coast is very humid. Pack a hat or sun visor, and plenty of sunscreen.

3.  Shots/Medicine

Before you travel to Kenya, I recommend that you check out the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) and the World Health Organization’s (WHO) travel vaccine and health advice at passporthealthusa.com. You should definitely pack sunblock. The pleasant temperatures, particularly in Nairobi, can be deceiving. Kenya’s proximity to the equator can lead to sunburn even when it does not feel that warm outside.

If you are only traveling to Nairobi, anti-malaria medication is generally not required as mosquitoes do not carry the malaria virus at that elevation. However, it is recommended to take anti-malaria medication if you are traveling to other parts of Kenya. Mosquitos are prevalent no matter what city you are visiting, so pack mosquito repellent.

4. How to Get a Visa for Kenya

I think that before you travel to Kenya, you apply for a visa for Kenya online. It is required for all US citizens and is relatively simple to acquire online. I highly recommend printing off the submitted form and taking it with you to Kenya. From time to time they cannot find a request in the system and having the form may prevent you from having to pay twice.

5. Haggling/Shopping 

The only think I really do not like about travel to Kenya is haggling. Okay, so I HATE to haggle, but it is part of many cultures, to include the Kenyan culture. There are a lot of amazing and interesting things to buy in Kenya from affordable souvenirs–what we call Kenyan swag–to beautiful hand-carved furniture, woven and leather purses, jewelry, and clothing from patterned African cloth. It is common to negotiate the price on all of it. Most brick and mortar shops have fairly set prices. However, all outdoor markets expect negotiation.

Don’t be shy!! Unless you are clearly African to the seller, the first price will be way higher than the average price a Kenyan would pay, which makes perfect sense. My philosophy is to negotiate to a price I am comfortable with regardless. If you do not like the price, politely walk away.

If you are unsure about what is fair, ask your driver or tour guide. They generally have an idea of what you should pay. Just remember, people are trying to make a living by selling you their goods. You do not/not have to buy anything, but be polite about it. Just my two cents!

6.  Safety First

Before you travel to Kenya, here are a few safety tips:

  • I recommend checking out the State Department’s Kenya Travel Advisory to get the latest on crime and terrorism.
  • I love the food in Kenya and there is a lot of variety, but it is definitely possible to end up with an upset stomach. Stay away from street food and consider having your red meat cooked with as little pink as possible.
  • Credit cards work in most brick and mortar shops and restaurants. You will definitely need cash on hand, but travel with only what you think you will spend each day.
  • As I mentioned above, you should steer away from boda bodas and matatus, as they can be dangerous in chaotic city traffic. Stick to named taxis for getting around.
  • Do not travel with a lot of jewelry.