#Egypt – Before I Kick it Travel

21 December 201910 May 2020

Egypt: Exploring the Pyramids in Cairo

I am not sure my bucket list would have been complete if it did not include the pyramids in Cairo. Cairo is a bustling city, with a population of about 20 million people, making it one of the most crowded cities in Africa. Cairo sets the backdrop its main attractions for tourists, exploring the pyramids in Cairo. During my first trip to Egypt, there was so much smog in Cairo that it was nearly impossible to see the pyramids. I left the country very disappointed and under the impression that there was not much to see at all.

Luckily for me, I ended up in Cairo a little more than a year later and had near perfect weather. With blue skies, I had the chance to see one of the seven wonders of the world. There are about 80 pyramids in Egypt. The most popular tourist site and the most well-preserved pyramids are located at Giza. However, you should not overlook Saqqara, the first pyramids ever built.

Pyramids and Mastabas (tombs) in Egypt tell you a lot about how people in ancient times viewed life and death. Ancient Egyptians considered the sun to be a god. Everyday the sun rose in the east and set in the west. It brought life, food, and fortune. People expected their lives to mirror the sun. As a result, they believed they would spend a short time on earth, only to rise again.

To be prepared for the afterlife and the eventual return to earth, pharaohs were mummified and buried with treasures. Many of these treasures can be seen in the Egyptian Museum. If you cannot make your way to Egypt, you can visit the British Museum in London, where you can also see Egypt’s treasures

Saqqara Pyramids

The history of the Egyptian pyramids began from around 2650 B.C. Saqqara is the location where pharaohs built the first pyramids in Egypt. It is the most important and the richest necropolis (cemetery) in the country. It is completely surrounded by desert sands and located on the western bank of the Nile just south of Cairo.

The Mastaba of Akhethotep and Ptahhotep

Inside of the pyramids and mastabas, you can see the stories of the individuals who were buried in the tombs inscribed on the walls. Many of the texts and pictures provide unusual and rare details.

The pyramid text are the oldest complete collection of religious writings. Spells, ritual chants, and anything else necessary to ensure the protection of the other world for the dead pharaoh were inscribed in tombs. As a result, there were 228 inscriptions, painted in blue and written in hieroglyphs to aid the pharaoh’s journey into eternity.

Giza Pyramid

Giza is one of the 7 wonders of the world, and a must see. There are 3 big and 3 small pyramids at Giza. By the time Egyptians built Giza, they had better technology. For this reason, they are the most well-preserved pyramids in Egypt. The earthquake in Crete in 1303 was felt in all the way in Cairo and it dislodged the first layer of limestone that gave the pyramids their smooth appearance.

You can visit the pyramids anytime of the year. However, Egyptians tend to burn anything they can get their hands on in the winter, which creates a lot of smog. While it is blazing hot in the summer, it was much easier to see the the pyramids as well as the rest of the city without a cloud of smog hanging over the city. I recommend booking a tour guide to see the pyramids. It will give you a much richer, hassle free experience.

Check our my post on 10 Tips for Travel in Egypt for recommendations.

26 August 201910 May 2020

Reviews: EgyptAir Coach and Business Class

The reviews on EgyptAir coach and business class are mixed at best, but are generally horrible. I have flown one round trip domestic flight and one short leg in business class on EgyptAir, which I think was enough for me to get a feel for the airline. All of my flights on this airline originated in Cairo. The Cairo Airport can be a little crowded and nuts. Please note that you must show your travel itinerary to security before they will allow you to enter the airport.

My first flight on EgyptAir was to Luxor, Egypt. Checking in was pretty easy and what you would expect out of any airline. Before you can enter into the gate area, security will scan your luggage. You must go through security again at the gate. I experienced this on both domestic and international flights, so you should give yourself plenty of time to make your flight.

For smaller, domestic flights, it is not clear if anyone is actually manning most of the gates and it is possible no one will announce when the flight is boarding. I only knew that my flight was boarding because people started standing up. I still do not know how they all figured it out. In the same spirit, it is also difficult to know if, when and for how long your flight will be delayed. On my return flight from Luxor to Cairo, we waited and waited. We watched the clock tick by as our boarding and departure times came and went. We did not get a single update from the staff or on the departure board.

Flying Coach

The aircrafts are between old, and very old and falling apart. The coach flights were short and sweet. We were served drinks and a pack of cookies, which is pretty standard for most domestic flights. The stewardesses are not known for their hospitality, but they were very nice on both legs of my trip.

Flying Business

I flew EgyptAir business class to Istanbul Turkey. The trip was less than three hours and the seats were what you would expect for a short haul flight. It was an old plane and the TV monitors were falling apart. However there was plenty of leg room. I am short, but it was till nice to be able to fully extend my legs. The seats laid back about half way. We received a pillow and blanket, but not travel kits.

Business Class from Egypt to Istanbul, Turkey

To be honest, the food was pretty horrible. The business class food looked and tasted like United Airlines’ economy class food on international flights, which I never eat because it is so bad. They serve it on real plates, but that’s the only thing good about it. Even worse, EgyptAir is a dry airline. They do not serve alcohol, but they will allow you to bring your own onto the plane. They will give you a glass and ice if you ask.

EgyptAir is known to cancel domestic and international flights with regularity and without notice. I only flew this airline because I had no other choice. If you must fly this airline, I recommend that you have a back up plan just in case you get stuck.

5 August 201910 May 2020

Top 10 Things to Do in Luxor

Luxor is a much quieter, smaller town compared to Cairo. However, it has some of the most well-preserved ancient ruins in the country. Many of the tombs still have colorful hieroglyphic writings, which is amazing considering that the writings are over 4 thousand years old. There are many things to see, so here are the top 10 things to do in Luxor.

1. Valley of the Kings

Valley of the Kings is located on the West Bank of the Nile and is where Egyptians built tombs into cut out rock for pharaohs and powerful nobles. There are 63 tombs and chambers in the valley and they are all located at different depths underground based on how long the person lived. The walls of the tombs tell stories of Egyptian mythology and funeral rituals. It is one of the highlights of Luxor.

2. Tomb of Merenptah

The tomb of Merenptah is located in the Valley of the Kings. He was the son of one of the greatest pharaohs of Egypt, Ramesses II. The pathway to the burial chamber extends 160 meters underground. On your walk underground, there are beautiful and interesting decorations and color stretching from the ceiling to the floors.

3. Tomb of Ramesses III

Located in the Valley of the Kings, the tomb of Ramesses III is one of the largest in the valley. His mummified body is not available for the public to see, but it apparently set the framework for Hollywood’s depiction of mummies.

4. Tomb of King Tutankhamun

The tomb of King Tutankhamun (known as King Tut) was built quickly because he died at age 19. Because of his early death, the walls are only painted instead of carved. As a result, some would say that the paint has not survived well over time. It still looked amazing to me. You must buy an extra ticket (about $5) to visit King Tut’s tomb, but you will be able to see his mummified body, which is really cool. You are not allowed to take photos in the tomb, even if you have a photo pass.

5. Tomb of Ramesses VI

His tomb is one of the largest in the Valley of the Kings. During his reign of only six years, he took on a large building program in Upper Egypt. His mummified body is now located in the Egyptian Museum.

6. Temple of Queen Hatshepsut

The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut is located near the Valley of the Kings. It is thought to be one of the “incomparable moments of ancient Egypt.” It has undergone quite a bit of restoration, but that does not take away from the interesting nature of the place. For architecture lovers, Hatshepsut’s temple is considered the closest Egypt came to classical architecture. Hatshepsut was the fifth pharaoh of the Eighteenth Dynasty of Egypt. She was the second historically-confirmed female pharaoh.

7. Karnak Temple

The Karnak Temple dates from around 2055 BC to around 100 AD. It is one of the largest religious buildings ever constructed. The place is massive and it is a wonder how the Egyptians even built it. Egyptians celebrated the end of the annual agricultural cycle at Karnak and Luxor for twenty-seven days. During the festival, the people were giving over 11,000 loaves of bread and more than 385 jars of beer.

8. Colossi of Memnon

The Colossi of Memnon are two statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III, who reigned in Egypt during Dynasty XVII. The name comes from Memnon who was know as a hero of the Trojan War. Floods from the Nile and a large earthquake in 27 BC did a lot of damage to the statues, but their large size still feels like they are the gateway to the city.

9. Medinet Habu (Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III)

The Medinet Habu is located on the West Bank of Luxor. Tourist rarely visit the temple, but it is worth the visit, since the walls still have a lot of detail. It is known as the best source of inscribed reliefs depicting the advent and defeat of the Sea People during Ramesses III’s reign.

10. The Temple of Luxor

The Temple of Luxor, also known as the southern sanctuary, is the site of the famous city of Thebes. It is unlike most of the other temple, since it is not dedicated to a god or specific king’s death. However, it may have been used to rejuvenate kingship. In front of the temple is the avenue of the Sphinxes, which ran all the way to the temples at Karnak. Visit the temple at night when it is all lit up and looks like it came right out of a Hollywood movie.

28 July 201910 May 2020

Egypt Travel Guide: Is Travel to Egypt Safe?

Egypt Travel Guide: Is travel safe in Egypt

Egypt is a desirable place to visit. There is a lot of history and beauty one can experience there. However, many people ask is travel to Egypt safe? Before you book plane tickets and tours, you should be aware of the current political and security environment.

Check out the US State Department travel site for more information.

Recent History

Cairo has experienced a lot of change. Long-time leader Hosin Mubarak was removed from power during the Arab Spring uprising in 2011. Recently, retired Field Marshal Abdel Fattah al-Sisi was elected president in May 2014. That was almost a year after he removed Muslim Brotherhood’s Mohammed Morsi from office. Since then, crowds and protests can form quickly. Do not stick around if that happens. If you are traveling with a group, you should have a plan for if you get separated.

Current travel risks, warning

During my recent trip to Egypt, British Airways and Lufthansa canceled all flights to and from Cairo because of a security threat. The US Department of State in July 2019 released a travel warning. It advised travelers to exercise increased caution in Egypt due to terrorism. The Sinai Peninsula (with exception to travel to Sharm El Sheikh by air) and the Western desert are off limits due to terrorism. The Egyptian boarder is also off limits to travelers because it is a military zone.

General Safety

As with travel to any country, there is the potential for petty theft. However, street crime is not that common in Egypt. You should be smart and not take expensive jewelry or belongings. Make sure you carry small amounts of money and bills. I do not recommend taking any form of public transportation in Cairo as they are at risk of terrorist activity and crime. You should also keep a form of identification on you at all times. If you prefer not to carry your passport, make a copy of it and keep that with you.

Traveling as a woman in Egypt

You will almost certainly experience unwanted attention or be harassed by men during your trip. It may just be cat calling, whistling, or horn honking. However, it is also possible that someone one will try to grope you. However, it is rare for men to commit violent crime against women. Remember Egypt is a Muslim country. Dress conservatively. Do not wear shorts or short dresses. Cover your arms. T-Shirts are okay, but the longer the sleeve the better. Women do not have to cover their heads.

28 July 201910 May 2020

10 Tips Before Traveling to Egypt

Traveling to Egypt can be overwhelming. English is not widely spoken and unless you have grown up in the Middle East, it can be difficult to navigate the culture. Here are 10 tips before traveling to Egypt to help make your journey easy and allow you to enjoy everything the country has to offer.

Arriving in Egypt

Visas are required for Americans traveling to Egypt. It cost $25 for a single entry, 30-day visa, which you can obtain on arrival. You can also get a multiple entry visa for $60. Be mindful that Egyptian immigration officials have denied entry to travelers without explanation, however is rare. If you are arriving from Israel or Gaza, check out the US Department of State’s travel website for additional information.

Departing Egypt

Make sure you have a copy of your flight itinerary with you. You will have to show it to security before they allow you to enter the airport in Cairo.

Safety in Egypt

Crime in Egypt is actually quite low. Occasionally, travelers may have their purses or backpacks snatched off their arms by people riding by on motorbikes, but that is rare. The main concern is an increased risk of terrorism in Egypt, particularly in Cairo. For more information, read my post on is it safe to travel to Egypt in 2019?

Hire a tour guide

You can definitely get around Cairo via taxi, but I recommend that you join a tour group to visit the sites. You can also work through your hotel, but I can guarantee they will be way more expensive to provide the same or lesser experience. I used Emo Tours Egypt. They were very knowledgable and took great care of me during the tour. Egypt Tours also has great reviews. Without a tour guide, you may be subjected to harassment from the locals who want to show you around the city for pay. You may also be taken advantage of and scammed.

Checkpoints

There are checkpoints all over the city, so do not be worried the first time your driver gets stopped. They will generally ask the driver where you are going, how many people are in the vehicle, nationality, are there any VIPs, and your follow-on destination.

Public Restrooms

You generally have to pay a small fee, about 5-10 EGP, to enter public bathrooms. You may also want to keep a small amount of toilet paper with you. Be mindful that sometimes the toilet paper is located at the bathroom’s entrance rather than the in the stalls.

No PDA

You should remember that Egypt is a Muslim country. While there is a mix of religious and secular behavior, public displays of affection should still be avoided. It is a lot more common and customary to see to men greet each other with a kiss as a sign of friendship.

Dress

As I mentioned above, Egypt is a Muslim country, so conservative dress is appropriate. I did see a lot of men and women tourists wearing shorts and spaghetti strapped tops, but I do not recommend it. You will draw lots of attention from the locals and your goal should be to blend in, not stand out. Egypt is blazing hot during the summer, but I still recommend that you not wear shorts. Women should not wear low cut tops or short shorts. Women do not have to cover their heads.

Egypt is warm and hot!

I have been to Egypt twice. I traveled in February, when it was about 70-75 degrees and in July, when temperatures reached almost 120 in Luxor. Most of Egypt’s main attractions and “museums” are outdoors. Being outside for 10 or more hours a day in very hot weather can be rough on most people. I recommend that you pack a hat, sunscreen, and lots of water if you plan to travel to Egypt during the summer.

Be mindful of unlicensed tour guides

If you are wondering the sites in Egypt and it is clear that you are not part of a tour group, locals or uncertified tour guides, will try be helpful and show you around. It may seem like they are just helping you out of the goodness of their hearts and out of pride for their country, but they are looking to be paid. It could be as simple as pointing you in a direction. In Egypt, the art of asking for a tip is called Baksheesh

This also applies to people trying to assist with your luggage when you leave the airport or enter your hotel. If you let anyone take your baggage at any point, they will ask for a tip. There is nothing wrong with this if that is what you want to do. However, be aware that if you pull money out, you may soon have a crowd around you.

Cell phone access. It is worth it!

Taking an unlocked phone or one that will work on the Egyptian network will save you a lot of headache. Many Egyptians do not speak English, so simple things like getting in a cab and providing directions can be a challenge. Being able to use your phone to map out where you need to be or order an Uber, will make your trip much easier.