Kenya – Before I Kick it Travel

24 April 202010 May 2020

Safari in Kenya: An Ultimate Guide

When I started my bucket list in 2010, I never imagined that I would be able to do so many things on it so quickly. Going on safari seemed like an item that I would check off in the very distant future. However I was able to check off safari in Kenya early in my bucket list journey. I have been fortunate to have been on five safaris over the years.

Zoos are not my thing, so I did not think I would love safaris. Finding a pride of lions, a herd of elephants, or even a momma warthog with her surprisingly cute piglets (yes…that’s what they are called!) made me fall in love with nature in unexpected ways.

By far, the Maasai Mara (commonly called the Mara) in the Kenya Rift Valley Province is the most popular safari destination. Home to the Maasai people, the Mara has beautiful, iconic landscape. It provides the backdrop to experiencing animals in their natural habitat. The Mara is where the Great Migration takes place. As a result, you can easily find the “big five” (the African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard, African lion, and African black rhino). If I could do only one thing in Kenya, this would be it!

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You have decided to go on safari in Africa and you are wondering how to get you planning started. It can feel daunting to plan travel to Africa in generally, especially if it is your first time to the continent.

I rarely use travel agents, however, I highly recommend using a travel agent to plan your safari. It will make the entire process much easier. Instead of using a US-based travel agency, I always use Nairobi-based Travel Affairs to book all of my travel inside of the country and to neighboring African countries. They are friendly and helpful. The agents have an understanding of the wide variety of safari camps and they can provide recommendations depending on the type of experience you want to have.

Where to stay

The Maasai Mara is the most popular destination in Kenya for safari, but there are certainly other gems. Ol Pejeta near Mount Kenya and Amboseli are two other areas I have visited. The Kenya Wildlife Service maintains hundreds of safari parks all over the country.

There are different safari experiences, but most include sleeping in a tent. No ordinary tent of course. Well, they zip up like a regular tent and sort of look like one from the outside. Once inside, you will find plush beds and full bathrooms.

You do not have to completely break the bank to go on safari. But, I do prefer the semi to luxury tent experience because it is all inclusive, has 5 star food and gives you the chance to customize your drive times.

5 Tips for Travel to Kenya

My Favorite Camps:

Sanctuary Olonana, Maasai Mara; luxury camp on Mara River.
Mara Bushtops, Maasai Mara; one of the most beautiful camps in Nairobi.
Governors Camp Collection, Maasai Mara; variety of camps on Mara River.
Ol Tukai Lodge, Amboseli; where the elephant rules the land and Kilimanjaro is in the background.
Tortilis Camp, Amboseli; luxury camp in Amboseli where the elephant rules the land.
Ol Pejeta Conservacy; Nanyuki; home to the last two Northern White Rhinos on the planet.

When to go

You can go on Safari any time of the year, however, the best time is from June – October when it is the dry season. The Great Migration, when hundreds of thousands of wildebeests and zebras migrate from Tanzania to Kenya, also happens this time of year.

The highlight is to see the animals cross the Mara River. The wildebeests and zebra line up and sometimes wait for an hour before making the decision to cross. I understand the dilemma. Crocodiles line the river banks and hope they make a kill and fill their bellies.

For some strange reason, after so much contemplation and risk, they often times just turn around and cross the river again. Because of the large volume of animals, there is also an increased possibility to see a lion or cheetah hunt or kill! Pick a safari camp that is near the Mara River. This will reduce drive times to get to the action.

I would avoid going on safari during the rainy season. Many safari camps in the Maasai Mara shut down during part of the long rains from April – early June.

You should work with a travel agent to map out the best safari camps to visit during this time. The short rains, November – December, are less challenging and safari camps are open.

Besides lots of animals, migration season is crowded with people and it is the most expensive time to travel. I personally think it is worth it. If you do not like crowd, you should travel in between the rainy seasons, slightly before or after migration.

Many safari camps offer great deals during the low season. You will still have the chance to see the big five (the African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard, African lion, and African black rhino).

How many days on safari

I recommend spending only 2-3 days on safari. If it took you days to get to the Mara, you will be tempted to spend a week trying to locate the hard to find leopard (it took me 5 trips). However, bumping around in a dusty vehicle for more than 3 days will mostly likely start to wear on you.

Instead, I you should take the extra days to spend time in Nairobi, travel to Naivasha, or visit the beautiful Kenyan coast. In three days, you generally will do about 5 game drives. That’s plenty of time to have a memorable experience.

What to Pack

Safaris can be dusty and temperatures can fluctuate greatly over the course of several hours. here are my recommendations on what you should include on your packing list.

Enough clothing to dress in layers
Light jacket
Scarf
A hat
Sunscreen and sunglasses
Backpack
Flashlight or headlamp
Bug/mosquito repellant
Camera and long distance lens if you have one
Lens cleaning cloth

24 April 202010 May 2020

Day Trips from Nairobi: 5 Great Getaways

I think Kenya as a whole is such a beautiful country. There is so much to see and experience that it could take you years to uncover all of its treasures. Most travelers only get to visit Nairobi and the safari camps. However, if you have time, there are several day trips from Nairobi worth taking. Here are 5 great getaway trips that are easy to get to within two hours of the city limit that I recommend.

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Lake Naivasha

One nicest day trips outside of Nairobi is a visit to Lake Naivasha. About 90 minutes outside of Nairobi, Lake Naivasha is a perfect destination to experience nature in a different way than a traditional safari. Lake Naivasha is a freshwater lake located northwest of Nairobi and is part of the Great Rift Valley. Named Nai’posha, meaning ‘rough water,’ by the Maasai for the sudden rain storms that cause rough, high waves.

The lake is home to over 1500 hippos and 400 different species of birds, making it a great place for nature lovers. Boat trips can be taken from many lakeside lodges and campsites. It’s a good opportunity to see the hippos up close, but proceed with care.

They are the most dangerous animals in Africa; strong swimmers and runners (for short distances). To give you an idea of their strength, only the female hippo bite strength has been measured because the male is too aggressive to test.

Cost: $20-25 for boat/$30 for Crescent Island
When to go: All year around
What to bring: Sunscreen, lots of water, snacks
Wildlife: variety of wildlife

The lake is surrounded by the most beautiful forests of yellow Acacia Xanthophlea trees. While on your day trip to the lake, make a stop at Crescent Island to get an even closer look at non-predatory animals, such as the giraffe, which were born on the island.

Mount Longonot

Traveling to Mount Longonot was one of the hardest day trips I took from Nairobi. An inactive volcano almost 9000ft above sea level, Mt. Longonot offers one of the most difficult hikes and some of the most beautiful views in Kenya.

Less than 40 miles outside of Nairobi, Mt. Longonot National Park gives you a chance to see if you can keep up with the Kenyans on this difficult hike. Try not to be embarrassed as they pass you barely breaking a sweat and hiking in flip flops with ease.

The hike is steep and the terrain is made mostly of volcanic rock and fine dust, which can be slippery and becomes muddy when it rains. There are several view points along the way. Most of my group was not fit, but it would have certainly helped.

The hike takes about an hour from the Park Gate to reach the rim and a little more than an hour to hike around the rim, so plan for 4 hours total. Unless you are an avid hiker, you will be proud of yourself once you complete the journey. I highly recommend packing a snack or lunch and bring lots of water and sunscreen.

Cost: $26
When to go: All year around
What to bring: Sunscreen, hat, and snacks
Wildlife: Buffalos, Gazelles, Impala and Giraffe

Hell’s Gate National Park

Hell’s Gate National Park was one of my favorite day trips from Nairobi. Looking for a less intensive hike than Mount Longonot with the same reward of beautiful landscapes and views? Hell’s Gate National Park is Mt. Longonot and Lake Naivasha’s neighbor in the Great Rift Valley and the location of what the Lion King location is based from. It is rocky and covered ash from the last volcanic eruption at Mt. Longonot, but a relatively easy hike. Established in 1984, it is home to many forms of wildlife. It is definitely my favorite hike!

When you arrive, there are guides available to take you on the hike, which I highly recommend. They not only show you the way, but they help you navigate slightly difficult terrain. It takes about 2-4 hours to hike, depending on your speed and if you choose to visit pride rock.

Cost: $26pp, approx. $20 per group for a guide
When to go: All year around
What to bring: Sunscreen, water
Wildlife: buffalo, zebra, eland, hartebeest, Thomson’s gazelle and baboons are common. There are over 100 species of birds in the park.

Brown’s Cheese

Brown’s Cheese is one of the closest day trips from Nairobi. One thing I love about Kenya are the gems you can find outside of the city. Kenya is not generally known for its cheese. As a matter of fact, Brown’s Cheese, an all natural cheese company, started because cheese was hard to find in Kenya up until 1979 when Brown’s Cheese was established.

Brown’s Cheese is located about an hour outside of the city center on a beautiful farm in the middle of the tea plantations in Limuru, Kenya. It offers tours of its factories and farm and lunch where you can tastes their yummy cheese.

I have done this day trip and tour three times. When you arrive, they serve homemade lemonade or some other homemade, refreshing drink. The cheese platter is accompanied with homemade bread and jams. They provide a tasting menu card that describes the cheese and the best jam parings. Since their cheeses do not contain additives, coloring, or coating the taste is super fresh. I am not a fan of stinky cheeses, but their feta and blue cheeses are my favorites.

After the cheese tasting, lunch is served, followed by homemade ice cream. I recommend the salted caramel!

Cost: Approximately $40
When to go: All year around

Kiambethu Tea Farm

Kiambethu Tea Farm is also one of the easiest day trips from Nairobi. It is also located in Limuru, in the rolling hills covered tea plants, the Kiambethu Tea Farm was established in 1910 and is still run by the same family.

The farm is very peaceful. You can enjoy a cup of tea, hear the history of the farm, and then walk through the indigenous forest surrounding the farm.

A homemade, delicious three-course lunch will be awaiting you upon your return from the walk. It is recommended you book in advance, as space is limited and tours are generally offered once a day.

Cost: Approximately $35
When to go: All year around
What to bring: A light jacket

How to get there? See: 5 Tips for Easy Travel in Kenya

19 February 202010 May 2020

Travel to Africa: 9 Countries You Should Visit

Africa, the amazing continent! I recommend that everyone travels to Africa during their lifetime if possible. It slightly puzzles me to hear someone says they want to travel to the “country” of Africa. I wonder why it is easy to see these unique counties as a monolithic place? Yes, you will also hear people say they want to travel to Europe or Asia, but they generally have a specific country in mind and rarely consider those continents as a country where cultures, norms, and languages are the same.

Maybe it is because Africa feels very foreign and most of the news coverage of any given African country hits one note. Maybe it is because fewer Americans travel to Africa for vacation than to other parts of the world. Whatever the reason, it seems like most people know very little about the people, culture, food, or achievements of those who inhabit this wonderful continent.

I have so many bucket list items I want to accomplish in Africa. I have only scratched the surface of getting to know Africa. But, all of my experiences have been amazing and incredibly memorable. I will admit that I have not been to West Africa. But, the next time I travel to Africa, it will be region that I visit. Travel to Africa is special. No matter which African country I have visited, I walk away with the same impression. The people are warm and welcoming. However, the various regions feel culturally different. The range of religions, languages (more than 2,000), food, music, dance, and skin tones make Africa very diverse and interesting.

Through all of my travels around the world, many of my favorite memories come from my travel to Africa. While I have been to 12 African countries, I am only highlighting nine because a few countries I have visited are now war torn or undergoing civil unrest.

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There is no way I could start my discussion about travel to Africa without noting my favorite county. If I had to pick one place to travel in Africa, Kenya would have to be at the top of my list. It is my favorite country on the continent, and not just because my name is Kenya. I have spent the most time there and I fondly consider it to be my second home. The country as a whole is so beautiful and offers something for everyone. Such as, city life, mountains, the beach and hiking.

Safari in Kenya was one of the first bucket list items I checked off of my list. While going on safari is my favorite thing to do in Kenya, the landscape creates the backdrop for varied and amazing experiences throughout the country. As someone who is not wedded to any particular ideal vacation, it is possible to have several types of experiences in one trip. The iconic bush in the Mara provides a backdrop to silently watch a variety of animals roam, hunt, and nurture their young in their natural habitat.

People from all over the world travel to Africa every year for the Great Migration. Throughout the year, millions of wildebeest and zebra make a huge circle migrating through the Maasai Mari Reserve in Kenya to the Serengeti Plains in Tanzania. That in itself is worth a visit to either country. But, there is so much more to wildlife in Kenya than the migration. It all starts in the capital city, Nairobi! It is one of most vibrant, fast moving cities in East Africa. You can one spend a day in Nairobi and get up and close with baby elephants, feed giraffes, and go on safari at Nairobi National Park. Yes, safari right in the middle of the city.

The large lakes, such as Lake Naivasha, allow you to get close to hippopotamuses and a wide array of beautiful and colorful birds. From the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, you can get a view of Mount Kenya or you can see it up close and personal and climb one of the tallest mountain in Africa. I cannot forget the beautiful Kenyan coastline. Some areas along the coast are more touristy than others. But, you can find clear blue water to snorkel, scuba diving, parasailing, or go deep sea fishing.

Best time to go:

Any time is a good time to travel to Kenya. The Equator passes through the country, so it is split between hemispheres. Part of the country is in the summer while the other half is in winter. Not that it matters much because most of the country is warm or hot, hot, hot all year long. Nairobi has the best climate because it is 5,889 feet above sea level. So, the average high temperature is in the 70s. There are two rainy seasons, April-May and October. During these times you may want to consider putting off travel to a different time of the year. While rains do not last all day, soggy ground makes it difficult to go on Safari. Kenya closes some of its parks during the April rainy season.

Where to stay:

There are a lot of great hotels in Nairobi. My favorite hotels are: The Tribe, The Papillion, The Sankara

Tips:

Getting a visa for Kenya is required for all US citizens. It is relatively simple for you to acquire online.
If it is your first time to the continent, I recommend using a Nairobi-based travel agency, Travel Affairs, to book safaris and travel outside of Nairobi. If you plan to spend the day in Nairobi, use Moses (+254 726937965/Moses.mbogo@yahoo.com) to get around. Many American and other expats use Moses’ taxi service.
The temperature is fairly pleasant all year. However, no matter the season, it is a tad cooler in the mornings and evenings. It’s best to pack a pair of pants and a jacket regardless of when you travel. This is especially true on Safari.
Okay, so I HATE to haggle, but it is part of the Kenyan culture.

5 Tips for Easy Travel in Kenya

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One place I think of when I reminisce about travel to Africa is South Africa. South Africa, located at the southern most tip of the continent, is my second favorite country in Africa. Even though I have only seen a fraction of South Africa, its breathtaking beauty is unforgettable. I have spent most of my time in Cape Town, which feels like a mix between Europe and Africa. At every turn there are cafes, boutiques, and shops that you can pop into and enjoy the culture.

Before I dive into South Africa’s beauty, I think it is proper to start with the dark side of the country that can still be felt there today. The memory of Apartheid, which was a system of institutionalized racial segregation that existed in South Africa in the mid-20th century, hangs over the country. As a dark skinned African American, white or colored (an official term for most mixed-raced people) people made sure to tell me where I fit into their society.

With that said, South Africa has come a long way, and taken steps to reflect on past transgressions. If you have the chance, you should definitely visit the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg to get a sense of what it was like during that time. The museum is well done!

Cape Town, located in the southwest part of the country along the coast, is a beautiful gem. I love everything about this city. It is difficult for most people to get to South Africa, but once you do, it is possible to enjoy the absolute best at a relatively cheap cost.

Love wine? Well, you can spend an entire day in the Stellenbosch and Franschhoek areas where some of the best South African wine is made. There are several day tours from Cape Town to these regions, making them very accessible. Many people drive themselves, but what is the fun in that? South Africa does not export a lot of their wine, so leave room in your suitcase so you can take home a few of your favorites.

Love food? I do! It is possible to get a multi-course, high quality meal and a bottle of wine for under $50. South Africa is known for it’s yummy game meat. From ostrich to kudu and a lot of other meats in between, you can get pretty adventurous. My recommendation is that you try as much as possible. It is usually well prepared and delicious.

While I love wine and food, it’s South Africa’s natural beauty that is even more memorable. The beautiful beaches and landscape will cause you to exhale and put you at ease as you stand in awe of the earth’s beauty. You can walk in the sky at Table Mountain, which was on my bucket list, see the tip of the earth at the Cape of Good Hope, swim with the sharks in the sea or visit with the penguins.

Outside of Cape Town, the country has a lot more to offer from safari’s in Kruger National Park, one of the largest game reserves in Africa, to the Garden Route. There is a lot to enjoy!

Best time to go:

In general, the best time of year to go to South Africa is between March and May and September and November when crowds and prices are lower. If you want to go shark diving, then visibility is best from March to September. Remember that South Africa is in the southern hemisphere, so it will be much warmer from December to March, but prices and crowds are also higher.

Where to stay:

I have always used Airbnb during my visits to South Africa. The hotels are great, but much more expensive. Do some research on the various areas. They are all great, so where you stay depends on your preference.

Tips:

South Africa has a high crime rate, higher than many other African countries. Do not carry large amounts of cash or valuables and it is best to travel in pairs.
Do some research on restaurants and make reservations before you travel. Some of the best restaurants will be completely booked 1-2 months in advance.
If you go to the Cape of Good Hope, take a jacket with you. Even during the summer months it can be windy and a little chilly.

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Egypt might not come to people’s mind when they think of travel to Africa. This country is a place of dual identities because it is the link between Africa and the Middle East. Egypt is full of rich history that is well preserved in parts of the country. It is exciting to visit places that most people will only experience by watching movies.

Egypt is a country of contradictions. For example, the magnificent Nile river flows from south to north and is the life line of the country. It provides lush, fertile land that Egyptians have lived off of for centuries. In contrast, the desert can be extremely hot and dry, and it can be hard to find relief from the sun.

No bucket list would be complete without including Egyptian ruins, tombs, and temples. They preserve Egypt’s history, which dates back to the time of the Pharaohs. Cairo is a bustling city that is home to multiple pyramids and ruins. They will make you wonder about how the Egyptians could have possibly built them without modern technology. However, Luxor is my favorite city. It was the top item on my bucket list for Egypt. It is much quieter and has historical sites that have been fairly well preserved considering that Egyptians built them more than 4 thousand years ago.

I truly believe that a country’s language provides a window into the culture and people. Arabic is a hard, yet beautiful and poetic language. The people are passionate and feisty, yet welcoming. A true reflection of the language they speak.

To be honest, I broke my normal travel pattern and did not eat a lot of Egyptian food. Traditional food consists of Java beans called ful (pronounced like fool) and falafel, which is made of chickpeas. The most traditional Egyptian food is called Koshary, which is a mix of rice, macaroni, lentils, chickpeas and a red sauce. It’s cheap and supposed to be filling.

However, I did eat Sharwarma, a popular street food that is a twist on the Greek Gyro. Fattah, is a traditional dish I think everyone should try. It consists of crispy bread, rice, meat, and vinegar/tomato sauce. Egyptians traditionally serve it at big feasts and celebrations. You should definitely drink the fresh juices; strawberry was my favorite.

Best time to go:

You can visit the pyramids anytime of the year. However, Egyptians tend to burn anything they can get their hands on in the winter, which creates a lot of smog. While it is blazing hot in the summer, it was much easier to see the pyramids as well as the rest of the city without a cloud of smog hanging over the city. I recommend booking a tour guide to see the pyramids. It will give you a much richer, hassle free experience.

Where to stay:

While it is a tad expensive, my favorite place is the Four Seasons Hotel in Cairo at Nile Plaza in Cairo. I also stayed at the Hilton Luxor Resort and Spa in Luxor. I think the most important thing to consider when looking for a place to say in Cairo, is safety. Make sure to pick a hotel that has some sort of security.

Tips:

Visas are required for Americans traveling to Egypt, but can be acquired at the airport on arrival.
Egyptian immigration officials have denied entry to travelers without explanation, however it is rare. If you are arriving from Israel or Gaza, check out the US Department of State’s travel website for additional information.
Make sure you have a copy of your flight itinerary with you. You will have to show it to security before they allow you to enter the airport in Cairo.
You can definitely get around Cairo via taxi, but I recommend that you join a tour group to visit the sites.
Watch out for unofficial tour guides.

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Morocco, on the northwestern tip of Africa, is a country that will wake up all of your senses. Most people I know who have never traveled to Africa, usually name Morocco as the first place they want to visit. While, it was not quite at the top of my list, I had several Morocco-based items on my bucket list. There are many sides to this country that will leave you in awe and many times in a state of pure frustration. However, no matter how many times I thought to myself, “why am I here,” I truly cherished the good, bad and ugly experiences I had in this interesting country.

Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, beaches, and golden deserts are the main draw to the country. The Atlas Mountains were not necessarily my favorite part of my travels in Morocco, but they are still amazing. You can drive or hike your way through the mountains, during which time you will experience beautiful views. Morocco’s beaches are amazing and beautiful with blue water that is calming and inviting. Spending a day or two in the desert is a must. Large sand dunes, camel treks, and watching sunsets and sunrises in the middle of nowhere will bring a calm to your vacation.

I must say that I LOVE Moroccan food, which they flavor with lots of spices. Besides the food, there are many shops you can visit to buy Moroccan jewelry and handmade pottery.

Best time to go:

To avoid really hot temperatures, the best time of year to go is in the spring and fall. I visited between late April and early May and I thought it was a little cool outside of Marrakesh. It was rainy in parts of the country. However, it was never really too cold.

Where to stay:

There are a lot of options for places to stay in Morocco from very expensive and luxurious, to fairly inexpensive. I chose the former route and spent a pretty penny on my hotels. I stayed at the Hotel & Ryads Barriere Le Naoura in Marrakesh Palais Sheherazade & Spa in Fez.

Tips:

Let me start by saying that nothing in Morocco is free!! Moroccans are kind people, but they want to be paid for that kindness.
Research the cost of cab fare. Take some time before you plan to hop into a taxi to do some research. I found a great website called MoroccoCab that can assist you. Always negotiate your cab fare before you get in the vehicle!
Do not use unofficial tour guides. This is easier to fall victim to than you think. Someone may approach you, start walking alongside you, and strike up what seems to be an innocent conversation. They will ask you questions like, “where are you from?” and “how long have you been here?” They will do all of this while showing you around and then charge you for their service.
Have a plan and stick to your plan. Go over your plan before you leave your hotel.
Look like you know where you are going as it may help you to draw less attention.
Ultimately, be polite, but say no thank you and keep walking!
Know what you are paying for. Morocco has great olive and Argan oil and saffron. However, it is not all real. Many places mix the oil with vegetable oil and god knows what they use to trick you into believing that you are buying saffron.

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Tanzania is in East Africa along the Indian Ocean and is one of the gems of Africa. I do not think most people consider Africa’s beautiful coasts or its islands when they consider travel to Africa. This country is complex and offers a lot for visitors to explore. It has a mix of Christian and Muslim traditions that makes this country even more special. It has some of the best safaris on the continent, which you can experience at the Serengeti National Park. There you will see the “big five,” which are the elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino. It shares the Great Migration with Kenya, when hundreds of thousands of wildebeests and zebras migrate between the two countries.

If you love hiking, climbing Africa’s tallest mountain, Kilimanjaro, will test your capabilities. For me, my favorite part of Tanzania is its infamous island Zanzibar and its beautiful beaches. Located just off of the coast of Tanzania, Zanzibar is easy to reach by plane or ferry from Dar Es Salaam, the country’s largest city. On this tiny island, you can have a mix of experiences. Stone Town, which is located on the southwest part of the island, is made up of small winding streets full of shops that sell local goods, jewelry, and handmade products. And of course, one cannot travel to Africa and not eventually be confronted by the ghosts of slavery. In Stone Town, you can also get a historical perspective of the East African slave trade.

The entire island has great beaches, but the most popular are in the northern part of Zanzibar. There, the beaches, snorkeling, and scuba diving are the best. The clear blue Indian Ocean water is amazing!

Best time to go:

When you decide to go to Tanzania will probably depend on what you plan to do while in the country. If you plan to focus on safaris, then going during the dry season from June to October is the best time of year to go. You can see the migration sometime between June and July. Zanzibar is beautiful all year round, but the best time to go is from June to October when it is cooler and Tanzania is going from winter to spring. You could also go during Tanzania’s summer months from December to February when it is very very HOT and dry!!

Where to stay:

My favorite place to stay in Stone Town is the Zanzibar Serena. It is a slightly older hotel and has a sort of colonial feel to it. If that does not interest you, then there are newer hotels you can chose from. In the northern part of the island, I recommend the Essque Zalu. I loved this hotel. It is right on the water, includes full board, and the rooms are beautiful.

Tips:

Visas are required for travel to Tanzania.
Depending on where you are in Tanzania, petty crime can be high. it is not recommended that you carry a purse or backpack if you plan to travel to Dar Es Salam. Large cities have high crime rates.
Remember that the coastal areas have large Muslim populations. Women should dress conservatively.
Homosexuality is illegal in Tanzania.
You may want to take malaria medication as it is a high threat area.

[penci_fancy_heading _text_align=”left” p_title=”Rwanda” title_tag=”h3″ _title_typo=”font_family:Merriweather%20Sans%3A%22300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

Rwanda, what an interesting country. A police state that is still scarred from the genocide of the 1990’s. And, I know some people who will not include it on their list for travel to Africa for that reason. However, it is a lush and beautiful green country where the people are welcoming and kind. Gorilla trekking was on my bucket list, and is what drew me to Rwanda. But, I definitely think it is worth taking some time to pay respect to and learn about the horror that happened in Rwanda almost 30 years ago.

The Kigali Genocide Memorial does a great job honoring those who suffered and died during the genocide. It is the resting place of more than 250,000 victims. During my trip, we saw 45,000 remains, mostly skeletons stacked on top of each other. Only a small reflection of the more than 800,000 Tutsis and some Hutus who lost their lives.

After paying my respects, I made my way to Volcanoes National Park to begin my trek to see the gorillas. I am drawn to nature, but there are few things that have been as awe-inspiring as gorilla trekking in Africa to see them in their natural habitat. Who would not want to travel to Africa to see these magnificent creatures? There is something about being up close to these creatures that left such an impression on me. It was one of the most memorable experiences in my life.

The Gorilla Berengei Berengi (Mountain gorilla) lives in the Congo, Rwanda, and Uganda. There are some 900 gorillas that remain in the region as the numbers have dwindled due to poaching.

Depending on where you start your trek, it may take you up to 1.5 hours to drive to small villages near the mountain and another 30-45 minutes to reach the base of the mountain. The hike is TOUGH. Your guides will barely break a sweat as they cut back the thick forest and bamboo to make a path. Meanwhile, you huff and puff up and question your choices in life. The trek can last anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours.

If you have time, make sure to take an extra day to see the Golden Monkeys. They are indigenous to Rwanda and cannot be seen anywhere else in the world. The trek to see them is not nearly as grueling as the gorilla trek. The Golden Monkey is an endangered species that lives in the bamboo vegetation of the Volcanoes National Park. It provides a beautiful backdrop for a visit with these creatures that do not at all look like monkeys to me. They are the cutest monkey I have ever seen.

Best time to go:

You really can enjoy this experience any time of the year. However, my recommendations is to go during the dry season from December to February and June to September. There is always a chance of rain, but I think other times of the year is just way too muddy and will make an already hard climb harder.

Book your trip well in advance of your planned travel. The number of trekkers is limited to about 56 per day to protect the habitat. The permit for foreign visitors to trek in Rwanda is $1500pp. If that is outside of your budget, the permit in Uganda is much cheaper at $600.

Where to stay:

I stayed at the Five Volcanoes Hotel Rwanda, which is a luxury boutique hotel. It is all inclusive and a beautiful. There are lots of other hotels in the area that offer good accommodations, but Five Volcanoes is one of the best.

Tips:

Visas are required for travel to Rwanda.
Wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts and take gloves: Even if it is hot, you will want to be covered to protect your skin from stinging nettles.
Only trek in hiking boots: No flip-flops!! You will have major regrets if you choose to hike with exposed feet.
Take a rain jacket: Even if there is not calling for rain, it could happen suddenly.
Carry plenty of water and lunch or snacks: Remember, you may be hiking for hours.
Take your good camera: I took a very expensive camera and lens, put them in my backpack, and let my porter carry it until we found the gorillas.
Pack a plastic bag for muddy boots. Our hotel cleaned our Boots, but not every hotel offers that service.
Take a pair of binoculars.

[penci_fancy_heading _text_align=”left” p_title=”Zambia and Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls)” title_tag=”h3″][/penci_fancy_heading]

Zambia and Zimbabwe are in Southern Africa. There are some very unique things that should draw you to these two countries, but for me, it was Victoria Falls. Spanning between both countries, Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The waterfall is on the Zambezi river on the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia. It is the largest in the world, which you can see from both countries. However, the best views are from Zimbabwe. While the falls are beautiful all in themselves, there are some adventures worth experiencing at the falls. If you are into whitewater rafting, then you can do some of the best rafting on the Zambezi river.

Travel to Africa would not be complete without taking a plunge into Devil’s Pool at the falls. Which was exactly my adventure of choice and on my bucket list. Devil’s Pool is a natural rock pool at the very edge of Victoria Falls that has been created by thousands of years of erosion. Thousands of tourists every year test fate by taking a guided tour through the Zambezi River and crossing a path of rocks before jumping into Devil’s Pool at the every edge of the falls.

View from Devil’s Pool

You may be wondering if Devil’s Pool is safe. Well, I think it is mostly safe, but not without a lot of risk. While you are not exactly swimming to Devil’s Pool, you do have to cross through the river to get there. You should be a decent swimmer. Also, there are apparently hippos and crocodiles in the river, which no one told me about during my trip. As for falling over the waterfall, there is at least one death at Victoria Falls each year, but the overall death count is low.

Best time to go:

It all depends on your preference. Travel to Africa during the rainy season in any country is not great. This is especially true for Vietnam. If you go during the rainy season or just afterwards in March or April, then the river will be full. During this time, Devil’s Pool is inaccessible. There will also be too much cloud spray to see the full width of the falls. Sometime around mid-September, the river is low enough to not only be able to see the full glory of the falls, but you can also go to Devil’s Pool. The river is at its lowest point in November and December when there is little to no waterfall. So, shoot for some time between September and October to get the most out of your trip.

Where to stay:

I recommend the Avani Victoria Falls Resort in Zambia. If you are looking for luxury, then stay at Avani’s neighboring hotel the Royal Livingstone Hotel. Animals roam the properties and it is not uncommon for a zebra to walk right by you. Both hotels are right on the Zambezi river and close to Victoria Falls. Even if you do not stay at the Royal Livingstone, you should still have dinner there at least once. The food and service are amazing.

Tips:

Visas are required for US citizens in both countries. You can apply online or get it on arrival in Zambia or online in Zimbabwe.
If you plan to do Devil’s Pool, then bring swim shoes or waterproof shoes as you will have to walk over rocks to get to the pool.
Bring a towel.

[penci_fancy_heading _text_align=”left” p_title=”Botswana (Chobe River)” title_tag=”h3″ _title_typo=”font_family:Merriweather%3A%22300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

Botswana is in Southern African and is a country that I still know very little about. And, I hope that on future travel to Africa, I can see more of the country. It is best known for its land safaris because seasonal floods draw a large animal population. The Central Kalahari Game Reserve is the most popular in the country. However, I visited Botswana for its water safari along the Chobe River in the Chobe National Park. The Chobe river flows into the Zambezi river where Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Botswana intersect. Unlike a land safari, which is crazy bumpy, dusty, and hot, you will peacefully cruise down the river while being able to view some of the most amazing creatures on earth.

When I think of travel to Africa for a safari, Botswana never came to mind. My expectations were quite low, especially since I had done multiple safaris in Kenya before traveling to Botswana. However, I loved my experience. There are some 50,000 elephants that live in the park and roam along the river. Watching a family of elephants playing at the water’s edge, testing the water for its depth, and then crossing the river was the highlight of the cruise. Getting very close to a motionless crocodile, watching buffalo roam along the river bank, and hippos playing in the water nearby also makes you feel close to nature.

Best time to go:

The best time to travel to Botswana for land or water safari is sometime between May and September, which is the dry season. During this time there is a large concentration of of animals.

Where to stay:

Since the Chobe river is in close proximity to Victoria Falls, my recommendation is to stay in Zambia and visit the falls during the same trip. I recommend the Avani Victoria Falls Resort in Zambia. If you are looking for luxury, then stay at Avani’s neighboring hotel the Royal Livingstone Hotel. If you prefer to stay in Botswana, then the Chobe Game Lodge and the Chobe Marina Lodge are highly recommended.

Tips:

Visas are required for US citizens, which can be acquired on arrival at the airport or border crossings.
Take lots of sunscreen and a hat.

30 December 201910 May 2020

How to Spend One Day In Nairobi

Kenya as a whole is one of the most beautiful countries I have visited. Its capital city Nairobi is definitely one of my favorite cities on the planet. It was the first Sub-Saharan African country that I visited. During this time, I discovered that it is such an interesting and cosmopolitan city. I had already been to North Africa or other Arab countries, however, those parts of Africa are quite different than Sub-Saharan Africa. Culturally, they seem more like the Middle East. So, I did not know what to expect to see or experience when I landed in Nairobi. There is so much to experience there, so it is hard to imagine spending just one day in Nairobi.

As a hub for East Africa, it is a very busy city with lots of character and charm. I have spent A LOT of time in Nairobi. Despite that, I still feel like there is so much I have not seen or experienced. It is the only place in the world where you can shop, eat, and experience a happening night life in the vicinity of a national park where wild animals roam freely and have occasionally made their way out to the city streets.

I know that many people traveling to Kenya only stop in Nairobi before transiting to the Mara or other safari locations. To truly get a feel for Nairobi, I recommend dedicating at least 3-4 days of your trip just to Nairobi. However, if you only have one day, I still think it is worth your time.

To make things easy no matter how much time you have, you can book a tour that will hit most of the city’s highlights through Viator.com. If you want a little more freedom, you can easily navigate the city by hiring a taxi driver for the day for approximately the same cost as a tour.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Nairobi National Park” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

The Nairobi National Park is a safari park located in Nairobi’s city center. Because of its accessibility, the the National Park is one of the most visited safari parks in the country. It is something you should not miss if you have several hours to spend in Nairobi. It is an especially great alternative, if going to a safari park outside of Nairobi is not an option. The park is the only one in the world where animals roam freely in a loosely enclosed space in the middle of a major city. There you can view zebras, lions, buffalo, rhinoceros and skyscrapers at the same time. There are over 400 species of some of the most colorful birds in the world the park. The only significant animal missing is the elephant because it needs a lot more space to roam than what the park offers.

As with any safari, you should visit early in the morning or later in the day when the animals are most active. Arriving early also gives you enough time to hit the other tourist highlights in Nairobi in the same day.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Elephant Orphanage ” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

During my first trip to Kenya, I fell in love with elephants and it would have been hard not to after visiting the Sheldrick Elephant and Rhino Orphanage in Nairobi.

All of the elephants are orphans, usually due to poaching. Sometimes momma elephants die of natural causes, reject their young or from time to time the baby elephant may be too weak to keep up with the herd.

Elephants are full of personality, which will be evident during your visit. What I love is that each elephant is assigned a keeper. They feed them every few hours and sleep with them through the night. They essentially be come their new moms.

For 500 shillings (approx $5), you can visit the orphanage during a public feeding of some 20 elephants aged from a couple of months to three years old. In about 30-40 minutes time, you will hear stories about each elephant, watch them drink milk from huge bottles, and enjoy their play time. I recommend that you arrive at least 30 minutes early to queue up. Crowds are generally large and you will want to be up front to have the best view of the elephants.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Giraffe Center” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

How many times can you say that you had the opportunity to get up and close with a Giraffe? Giraffes make my favorite animal list. Their tall, lanky legs give a kick powerful enough to kill a lion and their beautiful eyelashes seduce you. They are just magnificent creatures.

Sadly, the number of Giraffes left on earth has fallen by at least 40 percent in the past 15 years. For some species, it has fallen by almost 80 percent. The Giraffe Center in Nairobi helps breed giraffes in their natural habitat to boost the population. Calves are released into the wild at two to three-years-old when they are independent enough to survive on their own. So far, the center has released 40 giraffes into game parks around the country.

For 1000 shillings (approx $10), visitors can learn about giraffes in Africa and discovering how the center cares for them. One of the highlights of your visit will be be feeding the Giraffes from a a tall platform. Giraffes are very sociable and will eat right from your hand. Some people are courageous enough to put the treats in their mouths to receive a very wet kiss from the giraffes.

[penci_fancy_heading p_title=”Shopping In Nairobi” _title_typo=”font_family:Karla%3A%22regular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%22|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” _subtitle_typo=”font_family:%3A” _desc_typo=”font_family:%3A”][/penci_fancy_heading]

Nairobi has a vibrant shopping scene, where you can get anything from traditional African products and souvenirs to handmade customized furniture. Some of my favorite products are handmade clothing, jewelry and leather handbags. Whenever I travel to a new country, I try to buy earrings made in that country. So, I bought a lot of earrings ranging from very inexpensive to very expensive jewels during my time there.

One of my favorite places to buy jewelry is at the Kazuri Bead Factory. Located in Karen, Nairobi, single mothers make ceramic beads and pottery by hand, which are sold all over Nairobi. If you visit the factory, you can choose from a large variety of earrings, necklaces, and bracelets as well as some pottery. You will also get to meet the women who complete the long, multi-step process to produce beautiful and unique pieces of jewelry.

26 May 201910 May 2020

5 Tips for Easy Travel in Kenya

Travel in Kenya is probably one of the highlights of my all of may travel experiences. I love all the many facades of the country. From city life, to the mountains; from the coast to safari parks, there is so much to love about this country. As much as I enjoy traveling on the African continent, it can be a little daunting if it is your first time traveling there no matter the country. Kenya is no exception. Here are my 5 tips for travel in Kenya to hopefully make your experience more enjoyable.

1. Getting Around Kenya

One of the hardest things about travel to Kenya can be getting around the country. If it is your first time in Kenya, I recommend using a Nairobi-based travel agency, Travel Affairs, to book travel around the country and all of your safaris. To get around Nairobi and for day trips to the surrounding areas, you should hire a taxi for the day. It is completely normal and fairly affordable for the amount of things you can see in one day in the city.

I almost exclusively use Moshel Tours and Travel run by a great guy named Moses (+254 726937965/Moses.mbogo@yahoo.com). Moses has a fleet of drivers who you can call anytime of the day to help you get around the city. He even owns a safari vehicle with an open top, perfect for a safari in the Nairobi National Park. I have used and relied on his company since 2012 for almost all of my travel in Nairobi as well as travel outside of the city.

If you would prefer to book a tour, Viator.com, is a great option. I use Viator for most of my travels. Regardless of what you chose, for about 7-8 hours of sightseeing in Nairobi, you should pay no more than $100-120.

I would avoid riding in boda bodas (motorcycle taxi) because traffic is crazy and they are more prone to getting into accidents. I would avoid matatus (van taxi) because they are generally packed with riders, do not follow the rules of the road, and you risk being robbed. Finally, I would not take an Uber in Nairobi. Things may have changed, but Uber drivers occasionally come under attack from other taxi drivers because Uber offers lower prices. Make sure you take reputable taxis. You put yourself at a higher risk of being in an accident in non-reputable taxis. Others may disagree, but I’ve spent a lot of time in Kenya and that is my take.

2. What to Pack: Bring layers

Travel in Kenya will require you to pack for a range of weather you may experience in one trip. The equator runs through Kenya, so one would think that it is blazing hot all of the time. Well, not quite. Elevation in Nairobi is 5,889 feet (1,795 meters) above sea level, so the temperature is fairly pleasant all year, averaging in the 70s. In the winter months (June – September), temperatures can drop to the 40s at night and in the summer (December – March), temperatures can rise to almost 90 degrees.

However, travel to Kenya during all times of the year, it tends to be a tad cooler in the mornings and evenings. It’s best to pack a pair of pants and a jacket regardless of when you travel. This is especially true on Safari. Game drives start early in the morning when it is chilly but can become uncomfortably hot during the day.

Of course, if you are traveling to the mountains, it will be cold, the rest of the country fairly hot all year, and the coast is very humid. Pack a hat or sun visor, and plenty of sunscreen.

3. Shots/Medicine

Before you travel to Kenya, I recommend that you check out the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) and the World Health Organization’s (WHO) travel vaccine and health advice at passporthealthusa.com. You should definitely pack sunblock. The pleasant temperatures, particularly in Nairobi, can be deceiving. Kenya’s proximity to the equator can lead to sunburn even when it does not feel that warm outside.

If you are only traveling to Nairobi, anti-malaria medication is generally not required as mosquitoes do not carry the malaria virus at that elevation. However, it is recommended to take anti-malaria medication if you are traveling to other parts of Kenya. Mosquitos are prevalent no matter what city you are visiting, so pack mosquito repellent.

4. How to Get a Visa for Kenya

I think that before you travel to Kenya, you apply for a visa for Kenya online. It is required for all US citizens and is relatively simple to acquire online. I highly recommend printing off the submitted form and taking it with you to Kenya. From time to time they cannot find a request in the system and having the form may prevent you from having to pay twice.

5. Haggling/Shopping

The only think I really do not like about travel to Kenya is haggling. Okay, so I HATE to haggle, but it is part of many cultures, to include the Kenyan culture. There are a lot of amazing and interesting things to buy in Kenya from affordable souvenirs–what we call Kenyan swag–to beautiful hand-carved furniture, woven and leather purses, jewelry, and clothing from patterned African cloth. It is common to negotiate the price on all of it. Most brick and mortar shops have fairly set prices. However, all outdoor markets expect negotiation.

Don’t be shy!! Unless you are clearly African to the seller, the first price will be way higher than the average price a Kenyan would pay, which makes perfect sense. My philosophy is to negotiate to a price I am comfortable with regardless. If you do not like the price, politely walk away.

If you are unsure about what is fair, ask your driver or tour guide. They generally have an idea of what you should pay. Just remember, people are trying to make a living by selling you their goods. You do not/not have to buy anything, but be polite about it. Just my two cents!

6. Safety First

Before you travel to Kenya, here are a few safety tips:

I recommend checking out the State Department’s Kenya Travel Advisory to get the latest on crime and terrorism.
I love the food in Kenya and there is a lot of variety, but it is definitely possible to end up with an upset stomach. Stay away from street food and consider having your red meat cooked with as little pink as possible.
Credit cards work in most brick and mortar shops and restaurants. You will definitely need cash on hand, but travel with only what you think you will spend each day.
As I mentioned above, you should steer away from boda bodas and matatus, as they can be dangerous in chaotic city traffic. Stick to named taxis for getting around.
Do not travel with a lot of jewelry.